What is the best oil and fluids?

[Derryn.Gina]

I've recently inherited a Ariel Red Hunter 1954 650cc Twin which has not been started in approximately 5 years. I'm going through the process of replacing the oils and fluids and I looking to get some advice on what type of oils and fluids are the right ones to use.

Could anyone help me with the answers to the questions below?

I'm looking to understand what brand and type to use of the following (eg Engine oil = Penrite 10W-50);
-engine oil,
-gearbox oil,
-clutch oil, and
brake fluid

Many thanks in advance

[Keith.owen]

Hi Derryn,
My concern if the machine (which would be a Huntmaster) has been standing is that there could be sludge blocking the oilways. If you can, i would suggest that you get this checked out. Modern oils contain detergents which are of benefit when used with a modern engine. I beleive your engine will have bushes as opposed to roller / ball bearings and perhspas a multigrade oil is appropriate. Using an oil with detergents could be counterproductive if there is sludge circulating in the engine because it tends to cause this to be suspeneded in the oil for removal by the filter. Since older machines did not have effective filters like the cartridge filters fitted to modern vehicles this could be a propblem.

My recommendation is that you find a users manual for your machine and use the modern equivalent oil types.

Cheers,

Keith

[john.nash]

Are you a member ?
There is a 1956 owners guide in among our documents:
http://www.arielownersmcc.com/members ... Guides.htm

BTW, you will find that everyone has their own views on what type of oil to use (and why).

[brenton.roy]

Hi Derryn, I hope you enjoy the bike.
As John suggests, you may get lots of advice about the topic of oil!
Look for a reasonable oil for "older engines" and change it often. If you can get a straight 40 or 50 you will be about right. There is no oil filter.
As Keith has said, there is nothing wrong with multigrade, but detergent in multigrade oil can dissolve and suspend all the gunge inside the motor and so can cause damage. Make sure to drain all old oil out and wash out the oil tank. Start with new oil and after you have run the bike a few times, drain it and replace it. You can buy a Norton type cartridge type oil filter on ebay for about $50.
The gearbox takes straight 50. From the owners guide, "Ordinary engine oil is recommended for lubrication of the complete box and a filler cap and an oil level plug are provided on the kickstarter end casing. Oil code number or grade S.A.E. 50 to 60 of any reputable brand is suitable. (See page 64). The oil level should be checked every 1,000 miles and "topped up" as necessary."
There is no fluid for the clutch and brakes, although a small amount of oil goes in the primary chaincase around the clutch area.You need to put enough to just allow the chain to touch the oil.
The clutch runs dry, the brakes are just cable and levers.
Joining a club is a good idea. You can source advice and access things like owners manuals, parts books, spares schemes etc.
Brenton

[nevhunter]

IF the engine has been in use for only a small time after a rebuild where the crankshaft oil galleries have been cleaned out, maybe you could risk it. Most of the bearing problems with the multi's with plain bearings is the build up of sludge in the oilways in the crank. The "grunge" gets flung centrifugally and builds up in the galleries. The only SAFE way is to strip the motor and clean out the galleries by removing all the plugs and getting all of the muck out carefully.
Once this is done if the engine is run on modern oils there doesn't seem to be the build up that used to occurr in the old days, I have run a couple of singles extensively, and the sludge trap that is fitted to them has never shown a sign of accumulating sludge. Most older singles when the sludge trap hollow bolt is removed, they are completely FULL with quite hard sludge, that is quite difficult to scrape out. Regardless of what you do, remove the oil tank and put some old nuts and kero in it and shake it till all the rubbish at the bottom is dislodged. I do this at every oil change. They are not making them new any more.
Just a comment on the gearbox oil. While the recommendation is to use engine oil, a lot of the engine oils today do not meet the gearbox specifications. Borg warner gearboxes in Fords used to specify engine oil but an advice from Borg Warner recommended against it, for the reason above. ANy gearbox 80/90 ( which is equivalent to an SAE 60) would be ok .
With the engine ,if it is pulling a chair or you work it a bit. I would use something like Castrol Edge Sport 50.. The 650 is an iron head motor and runs a bit hotter.The primary chain and engine shock absorber would be happy with the gearbox oil mentioned. The clutch runs dry....Nev