My Cammy Engine Blog

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paul.wirdnam
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My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

I wish I wasn't writing this.... :(

In March of this year, I dug out my 1934 Cammy from the back of the garage; it had been SORNed for the last 5 years but I felt it was time to give it some TLC and start riding it again. I restored it in 1997 but sadly kept no records of what I actually did to the engine, gearbox etc.

Since March, I clocked up another 500-600 miles, making a total of about 9500 miles since 1997, and I've ironed out a few issues including:

New magneto bearings --- worn out
Shim out magneto end cover to get equal points gap on each of the two cam ring lobes
Rebuild PA Speedo --- it was coming part and stuck at 12
Better distributor cap and rotor --- heat was causing loss of spark through cap bakelite
New clutch plates --- one was missing!
New camshaft main bearing
New camshaft drive chain
New magneto drive chain
Change of camshaft
Change of camshaft drive sprocket
Adjust valve timing

Now to the reason for this blog. The bike has been getting noisier and nosier....not from the exhaust but from the engine. There are two type of noise that I've been chasing:

1) this is a tinkle(!) type noise; not dissimilar to a tappet. It comes and goes and you can hear it at tickover and sometimes when driving relatively slowly.
2) this is more like a vibration/resonance that appears at 40mph and above.

The last couple of weeks, I've had the rockers, rocker spindles and camshaft apart several times, but having renewed chains, bearings, camshaft, nothing has made any difference to either of the two noises. Squirting oil with an oil can on the rockers, camshaft etc while engine is ticking over makes no difference to 1). Noise 2) is throttle related; as soon as you throttle back, the noise stops.

Today, I finally bit the bullet and decided to remove the head and barrel with the engine in the frame.

Big end on cylinder #1 : gone, easily detect up-and-down movement
Big end on cylinder #2 : slight up-and-down movement
Big end on cylinder #3 : gone, easily detect up-and-down movement
Big end on cylinder #4 : gone, this one has at least 1/16th up-and-down movement.

#4 looks really serious from what I can see through the crankcase. The Retaining Disc for Big End, plus bolt, plus nut are all loose...even though the bolt, nut and lock washer are tight together....so I'm not sure what's going on there until I split the crankcases.

I'm glad I did this. Only last weekend I was riding the 4F in a rally, sometimes relatively fast. #4 looks as though something is about the break. Photos to follow once I've split the crankcase.

:(
Paul
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brenton.roy
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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by brenton.roy »

I sorry about your woes Paul, but am glad you caught it before the damage was too major.
I'm looking forward to the pics and story.
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

Thanks Brenton...I'm also very thankful I caught it before something dreadful happened while riding it....

A few initial photos to get on with....it needed a decoke anyway :lol:. The pistons, rings and bores look fine and the head will clean up fine. Three of the small end bushes are OK but the one on #4 was loose, worn out and has rotated so the bush and conrod oil holes were not lined up. I assume this happened due to the very poor state of the big end on this cylinder.

I've under-estimated how much work it is to get the SQ4 engine out of the frame :roll: .

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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

Early start this morning and I've finally got to the big ends.....but first a load of photos of the dismantling:

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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

And finally to #4 big end....which although totally shot (1/16th inch play), it has not resulted in too much damage to the rest of the assembly. Here is what I've noticed...and I'm really hoping for some advice on one of these:

1) Most of the damage is to the inner race; most metal has been lost from here. The surface is in a dreadful state.
2) The roller are largely OK although all the edges are breaking up.
3) Outer race surface has started to break up
4) The big end bolt (1096-31) rotates. I'm pretty sure this is meant to be keyed into the back of the flywheel; parts book image looks that way. Trouble is, I'll have to split the flywheel to address this.

And this where I'd really like some advise please:

5) The inner race is loose on its flywheel mounting. Not very loose,but it does slide on-and-off easily. My spare engine also had this problem when I rebuilt it 16 years ago (I used new big-ends from Vic Horley), so it must be a common problem. At the time, I used Loctite to secure the inner races in place but I have never run this spare engine, so I do not know if Loctite is OK for this application. My intention is to dismantle the spare engine and use the new conrods / big ends in this current engine. So is a high strength retaining Loctite (638) OK for securing the inner races on the flywheel mounting stubs ?

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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by adrie.degraaff »

paul.wirdnam wrote:So is a high strength retaining Loctite (638) OK for securing the inner races on the flywheel mounting stubs ?
I have never restored a "cammy" but i would go for the loctite becouse if the new bigend seizes it better slip.
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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by brenton.roy »

I understand the idea of grinding the crank to a new inner race, but wonder if it would be worth hard chroming and grinding to standard? Particularly if the crank assembly is coming apart. It's not the sort of motor you would plan to take apart very often.
I had a Triumph crank hard chromed and it worked well. Admittedly not Ariel quality, but...
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

brenton.roy wrote:Particularly if the crank assembly is coming apart.
The crank assembly is coming apart! Today, I stripped down the spare engine to get to the new big ends that were installed in 1997. But having looked at them, the new inner races are well and truly solid on the flywheel stubs, so I'm going to leave well alone...especially as there is not much of a lip on these races to allow me to safely pull them off. In addition, the crank assemblies are in better condition that the ones from my bike, so I'm going to swop them over.

The only spanner-in-the-works is that the 4 main ball bearings are shot, so I've disassembled the rear assembly (#2 and #3 cylinders) to re-new these standard bearing (LJ1.1/8 or RLS9) --- two will need notches cut (Dremel!) in the outer races for 1205-33 H section locating piece for slotted bearing. I also need a 5th LJ1.1/8 for the main drive bearing...so a rather expensive order for RHP bearings being placed tomorrow as I've decided not to use common "budget" bearings.

Pictures below show my unassembled rear crank assembly from my bike with shot bigends...and below it, the disassembled one from my spare engine --- a lot of force is required to get that large gear off the shaft! Tomorrow, I'll disassemble the front one.

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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by paul.wirdnam »

brenton.roy wrote:I understand the idea of grinding the crank to a new inner race, but wonder if it would be worth hard chroming and grinding to standard?
I like this idea Brenton...as it will mean I can still use my new inner races. I'm going to look into this....
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Re: My Cammy Engine Blog

Post by nevhunter »

Any plating of crank parts will require heat treatment rather quickly for hydrogen embrittlement. If this is not done the shaft is likely to break . Nev
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