Electronic Ignition for FH

General electrical problems
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john.nash
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Post by john.nash »

Thanks all.
So.....as long as my mate has the trade account and they are £8 each then I'll keep buying the cheapo ones ....
John Nash
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''78 t140 bonneville, '77 BMW R80, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, '51 VH500, '49 project Ariel , '47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '42 indian 741b, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....
pete.collings
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Post by pete.collings »

I had been told in the past that the way to treat a new lead acid battery is to allow it to stand overnight after filling with acid ( I always check the acid level is up to but not above the maximum level indicator, moving acid between cells to level out if needed).
Then charge at a low rate with a conventional charger (not a electronic top up type) until it gasses freely, and allow to stand a little while for all the gas to escape.
Only then fit it to the bike, and use something to try to insulate it from vibration that won't hold any spilt acid (old inner tube is good) that might rot the battery carrier and/or mounting.

This isn't foolproof, but I have got more than 2 years out of motorcycle batteries. I always fitted the largest amp hour rating capacity battery I could fit into the mounting space, with the 12V systems I used this was in the 12-14AH range.
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simon.holyfield
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Post by simon.holyfield »

What kind of voltage regulators are you all using?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
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john.nash
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Re: Electronic Ignition for FH

Post by john.nash »

Electronic on all six 6v bikes.
My early 60's Ural is slugged to 12v, via a harley 12v electronic regulator 12v LED's all round and 6 years now without an issue ?

I've had some bad experiences with the mechanical stuff (and then some good ones).
Most of my bikes come without a regulator box and I wouln't trust anything original from an autojumble or new from India...

I now rip out the mechanicals on an old box and fit electronic. Not broken one yet.
I have some DVR's from here: http://dynamoregulators.com/
One or two from Sean Hawker here: http://www.hawkerelectrical.co.uk/
I think one is a http://www.aoservices.co.uk/ one

The Wassell one insists that you rewire your dynamo but they are cheaper .... to be fair ... I'd rather go with a the chaps above than risk another melted armature.
John Nash
AOMCC No.4119
''78 t140 bonneville, '77 BMW R80, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, '51 VH500, '49 project Ariel , '47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '42 indian 741b, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....
keith.hodgenia
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Post by keith.hodgenia »

It is easy for manufacturers to design in the life expectancy of a lead acid battery. A battery cell is dead once the plates are shorted out by lead sulphate particles accumulating at the bottom of the battery. The larger the gap between the bottom of the plates and the bottom of the battery the longer the battery will last all other factors being the same. Aggressive charging rates, vibration and allowing the battery to become fully discharged are all bad news for batteries
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keith.mettam
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Post by keith.mettam »

simon.holyfield wrote:What kind of voltage regulators are you all using?
Electronic 12v negative earth from Sean Hawker, Simon, with new 12v armature and 12v field coil in dynamo. After my experiences of mechanical voltage regulators on old cars and motorcycles in the past a good modern alternative has got to be the way forward. Besides on a 57 NH visual originality isn't really affected as the old mechanical one was tucked away in the toolbox anyway.
Regards,
Keith Mettam.
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Post by Leslie.Ore »

When my grandad bought a brand new Royal Enfield Super Meteor,the deal breaker was that they change it from coil 2 mag ignition,he didn't like coils/batteries.Me dad was the same,get yer mag (properly)sorted,& all's well!This is just personal preference of course....
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