Timing
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Timing
Hi I have a Golden Arrow That am restoring and could do with some tips on timing. I can't find the hole in the flywheel that you are is supposed to line up with the top hole on the points cover. Any help would be appreciated.
- Roger James
- Holder of a Silver Anorak
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Re: Timing
Tim,
The timing holes in the flywheel are only very small and easily missed when turning engine over and trying to push the timing peg into them so turn the engine over slowly as you apply pressure to the timing peg pushed into the top screw hole for points cover plate.
If engine is loose on the workbench, with plugs out so makes turning engine over easier, and you'll need them out anyway to check piston is coming up to top dead centre for the side you are setting the timing on, nearside piston for the top set of points, offside piston for the bottom set, fit kickstart lever and use that to turn engine over slowly until timing peg engages, if in wrong hole then withdraw peg and turn engine over a bit further until peg locates in other hole.
If engine in frame you can do the same with the kickstarter but means leaning over the bike to push peg home or, put it in gear and staying on the nearside of the bike you can turn the back wheel by hand that will rotate the engine for inserting the timing peg.
Its nice to have the proper tools for the job, such as the timing peg but if you've not got one a good clean round nail will do the job just as well, not too thin a nail, if it will slide easily through the hole in the primary chaincase then it should locate well enough in the hole in the flywheel and perform well enough for setting the timing.
Photo shows a spare flywheel, the timing holes are at 12 o' clock and 6 o'clock - two timings pegs at the side, one is a proper jobby the other is a clean nail.
If you want to use a proper timing peg let me know and I'll give you two contacts who I'm sure will be happy to make you one for a small fee.
Jess
The timing holes in the flywheel are only very small and easily missed when turning engine over and trying to push the timing peg into them so turn the engine over slowly as you apply pressure to the timing peg pushed into the top screw hole for points cover plate.
If engine is loose on the workbench, with plugs out so makes turning engine over easier, and you'll need them out anyway to check piston is coming up to top dead centre for the side you are setting the timing on, nearside piston for the top set of points, offside piston for the bottom set, fit kickstart lever and use that to turn engine over slowly until timing peg engages, if in wrong hole then withdraw peg and turn engine over a bit further until peg locates in other hole.
If engine in frame you can do the same with the kickstarter but means leaning over the bike to push peg home or, put it in gear and staying on the nearside of the bike you can turn the back wheel by hand that will rotate the engine for inserting the timing peg.
Its nice to have the proper tools for the job, such as the timing peg but if you've not got one a good clean round nail will do the job just as well, not too thin a nail, if it will slide easily through the hole in the primary chaincase then it should locate well enough in the hole in the flywheel and perform well enough for setting the timing.
Photo shows a spare flywheel, the timing holes are at 12 o' clock and 6 o'clock - two timings pegs at the side, one is a proper jobby the other is a clean nail.
If you want to use a proper timing peg let me know and I'll give you two contacts who I'm sure will be happy to make you one for a small fee.
Jess
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- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:56 pm
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OK Roger, I will try that this afternoon and let you know how I got on. I have had the engine running and after the fist test run I got back and it would not start again so I think the timing has slipped some how. I first timed the engine by trial and error because I could not find the timing holes.
Tim
Tim
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- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:56 pm
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Tim,
I wonder if your problem finding the timing hole is because your rod/dowel/nail or whatever is too big, and will not drop into the hole in the flywheel. I bought a 9/64" drill for the purpose, and used the non-business end in the timing hole. With a voltmeter connected to the contact breaker, I could see the effect of the points opening and closing when I rocked the flywheel the very small amount permitted by the drill in the timing hole, by turning the back wheel with top gear selected.
I wonder if your problem finding the timing hole is because your rod/dowel/nail or whatever is too big, and will not drop into the hole in the flywheel. I bought a 9/64" drill for the purpose, and used the non-business end in the timing hole. With a voltmeter connected to the contact breaker, I could see the effect of the points opening and closing when I rocked the flywheel the very small amount permitted by the drill in the timing hole, by turning the back wheel with top gear selected.
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