Balancing individual steel flywheels

[nevhunter]

Yes a pin hole that has been shaved/ploughed is a Problem and needs resizing ACCURATELY in respect of keeping the stroke on each WHEEL exactly identical . Hard worked steel wheels run out on the Main shaft tapers as well.. I never true them using the centres as they can be damaged by hammering and make a poor job of alignment look better than it IS.. Use a narrow Vee Block close to the flywheel and a dial indicator further out. Correct the error on each mainshaft before you do the crankpin.. The "shoulder' of the crankpin helps to align it with the non tapered pins. Tighten both nuts fully. Any runout will increase the vibration.. The crankshaft and conrod alignment are at the heart of your engine.. Nev

[SEDoan]

Thank you Matt and Nev for all your help and thoughts.
I rounded the leading edges of the crank pin on this one and one I installed a couple years ago. Can't remember if I did it on the one I did 12+ years ago.
I've always aligned the cranks as you suggest Nev, with V-blocks where the bearings ride on the mainshafts. The mainshafts on this crank assy are in pretty good shape so might use the tapers just to balance. It would be easy to do on the lathe if the bed were wide enough.

I wonder if a worn pin hole in a steel flywheel could be made up by electro-plating the end of the pin with copper to make up the difference? Anyone tried that?

[nevhunter]

Anyone making Pins could make a small oversize on one or both sides when the pin is ground. I think the alpha ones were oversize and a bit too much for an unworn flywheel to cope with. The best thing back a while was to send the wheels and conrod and let them do the lot. Since MAX is not with us I don't know what the current arrangements are. Short parallel press fits are not my idea of good engineering. Get the NUTS eyewateringly tight. Nev

[Roger Gwynn]

I use a press fit parallel pin with a Jawa con-rod in my engine, no nuts, no problems after almost 54,000 miles, well not with the pin to flywheel arrangement. The wheels were machined from steel billet and the fit is tight to say the least, I see 5 tons on the gauge on my press.

[nevhunter]

Without a nut you have a longer Press fit to get better alignment and keep it.. Not all press fits are the same and even short tapers can give problems. with alignments when things have been dismantled a few times or over revved. Steel flywheels can warp . Nodular iron is more stable. Nev

[Karol Burger]

in the past I have done a general article on crankshaft balancing. We dealt with the weight of the piston and the like. it can also be switched to the English language.

https://www.arielklub.sk/magazin-vyvaze ... otora.html

we also have a few left hand threaded shafts and nuts left in stock. maybe this information will help you.

https://www.arielklub.sk/inzerat-23316- ... luky-Ariel

https://www.arielklub.sk/inzerat-23316- ... -1926-1933

[Karol Burger]

here it should already work in the English language.

https://www-arielklub-sk.translate.goog ... x_tr_hl=sk

[SEDoan]

here it should already work in the English language.

https://www-arielklub-sk.translate.goog ... x_tr_hl=sk

Thank you Karol, I will read through this.

[SEDoan]

I use a press fit parallel pin with a Jawa con-rod in my engine, no nuts, no problems after almost 54,000 miles, well not with the pin to flywheel arrangement. The wheels were machined from steel billet and the fit is tight to say the least, I see 5 tons on the gauge on my press.

What is the advantage of the Jawa conrod? This is in an Ariel VH?

[nevhunter]

A lot of people have used the JAWA innards because it is out of their SPEEDWAY model bikes so is robust and available for worked over machines or hard work. Not as cheap these days as it once was. NOT JUST in Ariels. Nev