Big end nuts
- simon.holyfield
- Holder of a Platinum Anorak
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Big end nuts
I've used new bolts, washers and nuts from Draganfly. What should I do? Seek an alternative nut? Delete the washer? Grind out the case?
cheers
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
-
- Holder of a Golden Anorak
- Posts: 1670
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 11:37 pm
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Re: Big end nuts
Simes - it's been a while, remind us please which cases you're using (CNLF or LF) and which crankshaft, big journal or small journal?
SG
SG
Web admin (webmaster@arielownersmcc.com)
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
- simon.holyfield
- Holder of a Platinum Anorak
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Re: Big end nuts
Sure. These are CNLF cases with a big bearing crank & rods.Simon.Gardiner wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2023 12:51 am Simes - it's been a while, remind us please which cases you're using (CNLF or LF) and which crankshaft, big journal or small journal?
SG
cheers
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Re: Big end nuts
Hi Simon
Have you shimmed the crank to set the end float yet? Why not just compare the old and new components and see where the discrepancy is? Is the contact the result of big end movement not being restricted by the pistons in the bores?
I used the original bolts etc. as they are positively locked with new cotter pins and had no clearance issues.
Regards Mick
Have you shimmed the crank to set the end float yet? Why not just compare the old and new components and see where the discrepancy is? Is the contact the result of big end movement not being restricted by the pistons in the bores?
I used the original bolts etc. as they are positively locked with new cotter pins and had no clearance issues.
Regards Mick
- simon.holyfield
- Holder of a Platinum Anorak
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- Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:16 pm
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Re: Big end nuts
Unfortunately I didn't have the old nuts Mick - the engine was partly disassembled.
I'm on shimming round 2 - I'm waiting for another 0.1 mm (4 thou) to come in the post, so it's almost there.
I found that if I manually hold the drive side rod in the centre of the bore (no piston fitted yet) it appears to clear the case in that the rod will swing when the timing side has fouled - the timing side will still foul if the little end eye is in the centre of the bore.
It would be good to know what thickness the original nuts and washers had. I don't need to lose much - a millimetre would probably do it.
I'm on shimming round 2 - I'm waiting for another 0.1 mm (4 thou) to come in the post, so it's almost there.
I found that if I manually hold the drive side rod in the centre of the bore (no piston fitted yet) it appears to clear the case in that the rod will swing when the timing side has fouled - the timing side will still foul if the little end eye is in the centre of the bore.
It would be good to know what thickness the original nuts and washers had. I don't need to lose much - a millimetre would probably do it.
cheers
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Re: Big end nuts
Hi Simon
I've attached a snag from a disassembly photo, it's the best I have of the nut, may give you some indication of where to concentrate:
Regards Mick
Edit: Just looking on the Draganfly website I see there are two types of nut, are you using the self locking ones, the castelatted ones are reduced hex size!
I've attached a snag from a disassembly photo, it's the best I have of the nut, may give you some indication of where to concentrate:
Regards Mick
Edit: Just looking on the Draganfly website I see there are two types of nut, are you using the self locking ones, the castelatted ones are reduced hex size!
- simon.holyfield
- Holder of a Platinum Anorak
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- Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: Norfolk
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Re: Big end nuts
That's perfect Mick, thank you. Interesting that your nuts don't use separate washers.
I'm using the self locking nuts which as you say are bigger. I have no holes in my rod bolts.
I'm using the self locking nuts which as you say are bigger. I have no holes in my rod bolts.
cheers
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Simes
'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Re: Big end nuts
Hi Simon
From memory there is a thin steel washer, (C 0.012"), under each nut - know anyone with a mill who could cross drill the bolts for you?
Regards Mick
From memory there is a thin steel washer, (C 0.012"), under each nut - know anyone with a mill who could cross drill the bolts for you?
Regards Mick
- Roger Gwynn
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Re: Big end nuts
The clearance with the large journal crank is very tight and whichever nuts you use I would use the washers, always good practise on aluminium as it spreads the load. The solution is to sand/grind a small amount from the c/case, you will find it is a small amount.
Roger Gwynn, Membership Secretary, curator of the Machine Register and the works drawings. Director of Draganfly Motorcycles, Craven Equipment and Supreme Motorcycles mostly retired.
Re: Big end nuts
Hi
The issue with grinding to clear is that if the nuts are moved you may have to repeat the operation. It looks like the Draganfly washers are standard design, better to source some thin ones, and if that doesn't give the required clearance cross drill the bolts and fit castellated as per design. Shame the bolts don't come cross drilled.
Regards Mick
The issue with grinding to clear is that if the nuts are moved you may have to repeat the operation. It looks like the Draganfly washers are standard design, better to source some thin ones, and if that doesn't give the required clearance cross drill the bolts and fit castellated as per design. Shame the bolts don't come cross drilled.
Regards Mick
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