1930 LF

[Julian Murphy]

Good progress.

[JohnLay]

Getting close to being able to take the machine out onto the road, but there are a couple issues that need sorting first. One, although I have had the engine running it's not easy to start and will not "tick" over. I suspect pilot jet maybe the problem here. Two, there is no charge shown when the engine is running.
The bike is fitted with a third brush type dynamo, a devise I don't have a very high regard for. I think I will go for a more modern arrangement such as that offered by "The Magneto Guys". There must be a "cut-out" somewhere which I have not yet found, possibly inside the dynamo. I doubt that I will be doing much night riding , but it will still need sorting out sometime, so might as well think about it now.

[paul.jameson]

If the electric system is un-molested, the cutout should be inside the dynamo end cover. If you disconnect this and remove the third brush, wire the dynamo as per a 2 - brush dynamo and fit a normal voltage regulator you should have a reliable system, assuming the dynamo works. I would be tempted to change it to 2 - brush spec, as I described above, then see if it motors, but you will need to look at various posts in the Electrics section to make sure you don't inadvertently polarise the dynamo the wrong way.

[nevhunter]

John you have the dynamo running at about engine speed. That is slower than desired. 3 brush dynamos were common in cars and bikes till just before the WW2 but US stuff went for longer. Overcharging the Battery is a common problem causing corrosion around the battery area and reduced battery life. when they run dry. Any OLDER auto electrician can convert them easily enough but bits for that stuff are in short supply and somewhat delicate. IF it's coil ignition and /or you have signals it's another matter and priority.. A total loss battery of sufficient capacity might be the answer there and just have the generator there for looks. Nev

[will_curry]

I thought the photo of the dynamo and its drive didn't look right but it took Nev's comment to
help me see what's wrong. According to the parts book the dynamo sprocket should have
just 14 teeth.

I'll have a look at the drive parts of my 1929 drive tomorrow and take some pictures.

[JohnLay]

Thank you people for your comments.
I think I will (for the time being that is) go with Nev's suggestions and just run on the battery. As ignition is from a magneto there is noting other that the horn
needs any electricity during daylight. As to the dynamo sprocket that was the one fitted on the bike when I acquired it, although converting to two brush operation is I believe the way to go.
Getting it to start and run correctly I think is my first priority. The offside exhaust does rather get in the way of removing the dynamo - it was difficult just to get the dynamo cap off enough to look inside.

Not a lot of room here, the dynamo end cap almost touches the exhaust pipe

[JohnLay]

Today, carburettor dismantling and cleaning.

Here it is, all apart and ready for cleaning

[JohnLay]

Carburettor all back together and refitted but still difficult to start (not helped by waiting for a replacement right knee) and still reluctant to "tick" over.
Any bright ideas anyone?

[paul.jameson]

The late Len Ore used to say that 75% of carburettor problems could be sorted out by attending to the magneto.

[nevhunter]

To check the spark. 1/4" at not a lot of speed would be enough if it's a dense spark and no arcing at the Points. Till you have a good magneto you don't have a bike you can use. Once they are right they are good for about 15 years. Old coils might go OK for a day ride but will leak stuff that looks like treacle which goes Hard as it cools and next day and you might snap a timing chain attempting to start it. Old coils leak electricity internally and make the coil run hot If the actual coil is a dark colour and the coil surface is soft It's had it. regardless of the good spark you might coax out of it when you are playing with it... Nev