Amal 75/014 help!

[garycullen]

Nev, I have the same type of “leakage “ as KJ. Mucking around with various gaskets and washers to fine tune the float height has helped, but I note some members just run the fuel bowel out after a run and forget about it. Starting has always been an issue with my 1946 VB, some times easy and sometimes I am not going to start today! Probably down to my technique so I will try the method Ralph advises above.
Searching Burlen fuel I find two different bottom nuts one short and one long. But no measurements.
I would like to check mine to see what nut is fitted on my 276. Do you know?
Gary
Auckland

[kjohnson]

Hi,
Just found this about Amal carburettors.
A lot of useful information there :
https://oldthumpers.files.wordpress.com ... ricks.docx

[nevhunter]

Gary I only know no carburetter i've worked on uses the shorter one, (Bottom BIG nut) All needle wear makes the thing richer. IF the float level is too low the idle will not be consistent .(Tends to just die when slow and hard to start.). Diemetal bodies can warp a lot and the bottom thread get very loose. Slide, Body and jet block wear makes the first 1/8 th or so of throttle a bit ordinary. That said, these AMAC or AMAL carbs can work very well when they are right. Magnetos can cause faults that may appear as carby faults . Often the spark is very weak on full retard. Of course to much advance will kick back so allow it to push your foot away if that happens. There is definitely a "Knack" in starting these things and a good strong magneto helps. Nev

[garycullen]

Thanks Nev.
I have a reconned magneto producing a bright blue spark.
I think my 276 has the long nut.
When I get the advance wrong it kicks back viciously….
I think it is partly fuel level and probably mostly my kicking technique….
I get a more regular start each time I use a carb starting spray.
Gary

[nevhunter]

Most won't start with the modern fuel unless you tickle it and have it a bit rich. You could kick all day otherwise. Most vehicles these days are fuel injected and the fuel is made for them. Nev

[garycullen]

I have been ticking until I feel cold fuel on my finger.
Full choke
Advance about 3/4 retarded so 1/4 back from full advance…. Or should it be more retarded?
Kick over a few times with decompression lever on.
Bring up to compression and using the decomp lever to ease it over compression then close the decomp lever and kick down for a full leg stroke.
I usually get one or two engine “coughs” and it may start but mostly doesn’t.
I will keep,practising my technique!,,
Gary

[garycullen]

Sorry meant to add I dug deep in my hidden fund and bought a brand new as for 1946 Ariel VB 276 from Burlen Fuel.
So I am sure I don’t have any worn parts or distorted flanges.
Gary

[simon.holyfield]

I have been ticking until I feel cold fuel on my finger.
Full choke
Advance about 3/4 retarded so 1/4 back from full advance…. Or should it be more retarded?
Kick over a few times with decompression lever on.
Bring up to compression and using the decomp lever to ease it over compression then close the decomp lever and kick down for a full leg stroke.
I usually get one or two engine “coughs” and it may start but mostly doesn’t.
I will keep,practising my technique!,,
Gary

I'd only use full choke in the winter here in the UK, and I'd be sparing with the tickle at all times. My W/NG is dead easy to flood.

[david.anderson]

Gary
The brand new carburettor could be the problem. While I don’t know of any reports of problems with the new VB 276, there are plenty of stories about problems with drill swarf still in some of the small passages on new purchased concentric and monoblock carbs. It might be an idea to remove the jet block, run a fine piano wire down all orifices in the carb and jet block and blow out with a compressor.
My own VB is fitted with a concentric carb on a short home made manifold. It starts first kick on full choke, no tickling involved. Likewise I do not tickle my VH 289 carb. Just full choke, 3 or 4 kicks through on the valve lifter and then a starting kick.
Another point is what plug gap have you got. Ariel specifies .015” to .018”. When starting is difficult it is always better to gap the plug to the minimum .015” as a weaker spark from the slow engine rotation will always jump the smaller gap more easily. And if you are using NGK spark plugs, they do not like rich running. If any of your jetting is a little rich it may affect the NGK plug and make starting more difficult.
David

[garycullen]

Very good points David,
I will pull the carb strip and check all the orifices never thought a new carb from Burlen could be dirty inside…. But you never know.
Gary