Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

Hi all, I have been following this discussion with interest hoping I might learn something!
Could some explain and/or post a picture as to what a “lipped” bearing looks like pleads?
And explain what the lip is for…
Cheers
Gary

The lipped bearing provides positive lateral location in one direction though it not designed to take a significant amount of load that way. Nev

Well, I ordered the 'major branded' LRJA1 1/8" lipped bearings from Simply Bearings.
They arrived the next day. The boxes are printed 'Sterling' and the sealed plastic wrapper inside also shows this name. The bearings themselves are etched 'Sterling' with no country of origin.
Hmmm...'major brand,' eh? I think not!

I googled Sterling and they are a wholesaler in Leicester, who do supply 'proper branded' bearings etc. It would seem that they also use a factory somewhere in the world to put the 'Sterling' brand on for them as an 'own label.' If they were wheel bearings which are easy to monitor and replace if necessary, I'd maybe give them a try, but not inside an engine...
Then again, has anyone out there successfully used these bearings inside a Square Four, I wonder?

I phoned SB and spoke to a helpful assistant and explained that they are not what I ordered and not as described on their website (where there was a list of manufacturer logos and a note to say that 'major branded' would be one of those.) She phoned me back later and said that 'it had opened a can of worms' and the web pages were incorrect.

Bottom line - SB's website was incorrect and they have now changed it. They don't have any other than 'budget' bearings (which I assume to be Sterling) in the correct spec. I'm still waiting for another call back to arrange returning the ones they sent me.

I've seen some correct-spec, proper-branded ones for sale elsewhere for just a little over £200 EACH

I'm coming around to thinking that going for unlipped bearings may have to be the solution...they are available for under £100 each - what a bargain!

Decisions, decisions.....

garycullen wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 3:00 amCould some explain and/or post a picture as to what a “lipped” bearing looks like pleads?

Hi Gary,
Here is a photo of the outer race of a lipped bearing.

paul.jameson wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 8:00 pm ..... but there is something to be said for doing without the lip on the bearing...

I'm still in two minds about the need for lipped bearings, Paul.

Draganfly say that they're not necessary and are supplying unlipped ones.

On the other hand, it is unlikely that the Ariel factory would have specified and fitted a more expensive bearing if there were no good reason.

Online searches haven't help me one way or the other, so I'm leaning toward lipped bearings......

Any thoughts, anyone?

Hello Allan,

Have you re-read this thread?:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6699&hilit=lipped+bearings

There are a few comments about lipped bearings in it.

Regards, Chris

Thanks Chris,
There's some interesting stuff, there (including the use of the kitchen 'parts washer!')

What is mentioned there about lipped bearings seems to be in agreement with the odd mentions I have found online; namely, they're fitted for a reason, so it's probably best to fit lipped replacements.

Allan.

The FH (and BSA equivalents) have a single lipped roller on the drive side, it is clearly necessary to limit axial movement towards the drive side.
The VH has a lipped roller on the timing side; the lip can only be to prevent the outer race moving in towards the flywheel if it ever
came loose as the engine shock-absorber assembly (together with the outer ball journal it abuts) on the drive side effectively prevents any crankshaft movement towards the timing side.
The inner of the two drive-side mains on the VH is a plain (non-lipped) roller. I've actually had the outer race come loose and move across to touch the crank. It was only noticed when the barrel came off for a piston swap and if I remember rightly the only obvious impact was a polished line across the crankpin (and the crankpin stopped it moving out by more than maybe 1/8" ). Possibly - to safeguard against all cases of the outer races moving - there should actually be a lipped roller on the drive side as well?
I generally agree that the original specification was done for good reason but for the VH I'm thinking that substituting a plain roller for the timing side lipped roller wouldn't be a problem - so maybe some of the original specs are a little bit 'elastic'....
(When it comes to the 500 singles I think there's a fairly strong body of opinion that all the roller main bearings are unnecessary overkill anyway )

SG

Thanks Nev and Chris. I have learnt something!.
Can’t recall any lipped hearings while putting my VB back together with all new engine bearings from Drags.
Gary

The latest high quality high duty BALL bearings are probably adequate. Their load ratings are way above the ones available in the 50's. I've had the unlippped ones move about when the motor gets very hot The loads on a square four main bearing are not that high. Not like a 2 bearing 850 vertical twin. I'd go for BALL bearings of a GOOD variety. Nev