Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

Part 1

My plan was to wait until I had assembled enough material to make it a complete story on this forum.
But the recent worries about a dying forum made me change my plan.
So here goes my adventure in resurrecting a 1928 Model C - 500cc OHV- :

Just one look at this happy couple and you are smitten, aren't you?
Out you go on Black Ariel hunt!
The Model C.
Single port 500cc engine 3 speed gearbox Lucas KSA1 magneto and much less
But less is more !
This -ofcourse- is the best looking Black Ariel you could wish for!
Light, only 145Kg. and a 500cc engine, wich means it should be pretty fast .
Basic mudguards, no fancy ribs along the centreline, valances or beaded edges.
The total loss oiling system with a lovely oil regulator on top of the tank gives a certain Edwardian style.
No such frivolities like a automatic oil pump or electric lights on this baby.
The Ariel factory sure hit the jackpot with the 1928 model range.
1927 was the first year that Ariel used a saddle tank on the models.
But that year they went through 3 different type of frame's, words like banana and scaffold spring to mind...
But then, in 1928, they got the knack and made what basically became the standard rigid 'Y' frame.
Right up to the last rigid ones half way the fifties. that's some 25 years later!

Amazingly quick I found one for sale in the Netherlands.
This model C was dispatched on 17 Februari 1928 from the factory to dealer Augustinus in Den Hague, Netherlands.
With Amac carburetor, Lycett seat and a magdyno (!)
Now a full 93 years later it is looking rather sorry for itself.. Task Number One is the frame, here a few pictures The front part looks o.k., at the rear it needs some attention
Traces of a heavy life.
multiple repairs and a few added on strips, did I just write scaffolding ?

Then, while browsing the wonderfull website from Karol I noticed this picture : Aha! made a copy of that steel plate to hold my frame in line while applying much needed force to straighten it. In place with the '28 frame on my frame jig. Taking out the offending bits. Freed the original bottom double T lug from it's alien bits. For the two new bottom rails I needed a bit of 1"tubing, found that at a special builder who sold it per meter.
Made a 1" pipe bender for it in a specially dug 'vice holder' under my car port.
(yes, I have a very understanding wife ) Square rod on top is the angle I should get.

Made 2 new 'T' lugs that go left and right from this centre double T.
White piece of tubing is a ceramic 'prop' normally used in a pottery kiln.
Now it prevents any welding blobs to go in the inside of the tube, the ceramic prop had the precise diameter of the inside. fast forward, otherwise you might fall asleep
Half ready new bottom cradle with Burman Q gearbox platform made by Karol (what would I do without you Karol ! big Thanks!) To squat the bent rear frame upper tubes I made a 'tube pincer' in 1" that fits in the vice.
It works surprisingly well. See if it all fits.. Now on to welding it up, that's for the next episode here....

You do a lovely comprehensive job Vincent .

I'm looking forward to the next bit.

Bob.

Excellent work. I'll be following your posts closely.

That is a lovely hymn and so poetic as well. \The repairs are quite good as well.

Beautiful work. If you need any of my repair products in the future, try writing to me. Maybe I can help you. For example, the sheet metal to secure the position of the frame has been processed in electronic form. I would send you a laser burning program.

continue your beautiful work, I will watch you

Excellent.

I do like the detail and the pictures.

Waiting for the next part.

I have a comfortable chair, and a cup of English Breakfast tea ready.

Another bit done

Very good, an other Ariel saved from the scrap heap.

cover from Steve : Thanks! I got my contacts....

The frame was, apart from being bent at the rear, also shorter.
Possibly because of repeated breakages and repairs just aft the gearbox platform,
( a known spot for breaking, see the Black Ariel book by Dave for more info)
So if these tubes are shorter the top rear frametubes have to bent down just after the seat tube.
Not unlike the WNG frames that have shorter rear bottom frametubes and bent down top tubes.
To establish the true size I payed a visit to Rein who let me measure up his very original 1928 Model B. For that I made a large 'caliper' to be able to get the distance correct.
from the front lowest bolt hole to the rear stand pivot it measured 90.5cm.
My frame was 86.7cm , that's where the 1"tube pincer came in very handy.

Part 2

Footrests, from these only the 'dog bones' I could save.
The hangers or distance pices I made from bits of concrete steel rod and turned them slightly tapered.
For the footpieces I used 1954 passengers fold up footrests by cutting off the hinge hole, drilling them and welded a short stud in them. the old hangers : made by Ford ?