Hymn to the 1928 Model C
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
Will try that in the coming days.......
In the meantime.. I've been playing with the mini Alton generator.
a few pictures of how I hope to get it working.
spacer + front pulley behind sprocket, ESA twin lobe + spring can move free inside those.
Aim to have it all reversible and no damage to original bits.
Made a second -dummy- engine plate in 4mm steel (orange) that sits in front of the left hand one .
Large hole to clear the rearbrake, no footrest yet, that will get a creative solution
This dummy engine plate will carry the Alton clamping ring with it's adjuster.
It pivits on the top stud.
Movement is 12mm back and forth.
to be continued
Added third stay at the rear of this first dummy plate.
The cardboard part will become the second 4mm steel 'outrigger' plate.
Figure out how to get it all away from V belt and the prim. chain.
Stays get shorter ofcourse.
Two pencil crosses where a 'fork' will bridge over the Vbelt pulley.
This fork will end in one stud for the footrest protruding through the prim case.
My aim is to have it not noticable from the outside .
arrow points at the footrest position.
In the meantime.. I've been playing with the mini Alton generator.
a few pictures of how I hope to get it working.
spacer + front pulley behind sprocket, ESA twin lobe + spring can move free inside those.
Aim to have it all reversible and no damage to original bits.
Made a second -dummy- engine plate in 4mm steel (orange) that sits in front of the left hand one .
Large hole to clear the rearbrake, no footrest yet, that will get a creative solution
This dummy engine plate will carry the Alton clamping ring with it's adjuster.
It pivits on the top stud.
Movement is 12mm back and forth.
to be continued
Added third stay at the rear of this first dummy plate.
The cardboard part will become the second 4mm steel 'outrigger' plate.
Figure out how to get it all away from V belt and the prim. chain.
Stays get shorter ofcourse.
Two pencil crosses where a 'fork' will bridge over the Vbelt pulley.
This fork will end in one stud for the footrest protruding through the prim case.
My aim is to have it not noticable from the outside .
arrow points at the footrest position.
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
You have to oil the cam and chain and that will make the belt slip I reckon. What about a toothed belt of kevlar. Nev.
- adrie.degraaff
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
I agree with Nev it's not going to work to much oil going around to keep the chain alive, without oil the chain is lasting 2000 km.
A small (magneto) chain would work much better.
A small (magneto) chain would work much better.
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
Nev, Adrie,
I posses an old British soul, meaning that my solution is going round in search of a problem.
Yes, oil contamination can present a problem.
I plan to construct small shields, partly attached to the outrigger plate and partly attached to the inside of the steel prim.chancase.
(yes, that part is going to be altered!)
The greasing of the ESA is non exsistant on a '28 mainshaft.
Now with hindsight I should have used a '29 mainshaft, alas...
The seams between the front pulley/distance ring/chaimwheel I will close with sealant to keep the grease around the twin lobe shock absorber.
perhaps fitting a small 'deflector ring' for the grease that escapes.
But some way to get grease (or oil mist?) on the ESA I will have to think about.
I like a problem, task is coming up with a solution that keeps the overhand
I posses an old British soul, meaning that my solution is going round in search of a problem.
Yes, oil contamination can present a problem.
I plan to construct small shields, partly attached to the outrigger plate and partly attached to the inside of the steel prim.chancase.
(yes, that part is going to be altered!)
The greasing of the ESA is non exsistant on a '28 mainshaft.
Now with hindsight I should have used a '29 mainshaft, alas...
The seams between the front pulley/distance ring/chaimwheel I will close with sealant to keep the grease around the twin lobe shock absorber.
perhaps fitting a small 'deflector ring' for the grease that escapes.
But some way to get grease (or oil mist?) on the ESA I will have to think about.
I like a problem, task is coming up with a solution that keeps the overhand
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
Well I've had trouble with Velo's flat rubber(neoprene) belt and I bought a Matchless that had a TOOTHED belt driving the MAGNETO instead of the original well oiled chain (For some reason that eludes me.) but it had worked for at least 3.000 miles. The C10 C11. BSA's run a very small chain Nev
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
That worked
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
Question:
New main for the Q box has both sides sealed.
My intention is to leave them both in.
But would there be a advantage to take the one on the inside out ?
The housing reaches over the seal but perhaps some grease would find it's way ?
New main for the Q box has both sides sealed.
My intention is to leave them both in.
But would there be a advantage to take the one on the inside out ?
The housing reaches over the seal but perhaps some grease would find it's way ?
- Roger Gwynn
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
I would remove the inner seal. The seals on bearings are really only dust shrouds not keepers in of lubricants although the do a fairly good job of that. You cannot beat direct lubrication.
Roger Gwynn, Membership Secretary, curator of the Machine Register and the works drawings. Director of Draganfly Motorcycles, Craven Equipment and Supreme Motorcycles mostly retired.
- Karol Burger
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
i do it the same as roger suggestedRoger Gwynn wrote: ↑Wed Mar 06, 2024 11:02 am I would remove the inner seal. The seals on bearings are really only dust shrouds not keepers in of lubricants although the do a fairly good job of that. You cannot beat direct lubrication.
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- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Hymn to the 1928 Model C
Thanks you both !
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