Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

Hi all. Some of you may remember me working on an old W/NG for a friend a few years ago. It was repatriated from India many years ago and I recommissioned it around 7 years ago and obtained a registration through the club. Well, without going through the whole complicated story, the owner was never really happy with it and I have swapped it for a triumph Bonneville, (2001 model) that had been stood 3 years since it late owner passed away. I always hankered after this, and so I'm happy to now finally be the owner. Quite a lot to do, as you can see she's 85% totally un-original! Never mind, first thing is to get the rear hub machined. The bearing on one side has so much play on the o/d that even shims and some special Loctite bearing fix didn't work. I think a sleeve may be the best option. Anyone else had this problem?

Try photo again.

my that is different to the original W/ng, mind you I have a BMW R90S, had it nearly 40 yrs, came original colours and parts, used as a ride to work bike it has gone through all the fairing types, and tanks, now has /7 parts, incorrect, although BMW car, paint colour regrettably so far from original but it is what was done to improve your machine, so enjoy what you have is my view.
kind regards

RTichard Woolnough wrote:my that is different to the original W/ng, mind you I have a BMW R90S, had it nearly 40 yrs, came original colours and parts, used as a ride to work bike it has gone through all the fairing types, and tanks, now has /7 parts, incorrect, although BMW car, paint colour regrettably so far from original but it is what was done to improve your machine, so enjoy what you have is my view.
kind regards

Cheers Richard.

You might go to a metric race and put a flanged adaptor to the axle instead. Metric is much cheaper. You don't need to do both as long as they are both Tapered rollers. Be careful to keep all on the original centre so it all runs true. Nev

nevhunter wrote:You might go to a metric race and put a flanged adaptor to the axle instead. Metric is much cheaper. You don't need to do both as long as they are both Tapered rollers. Be careful to keep all on the original centre so it all runs true. Nev

Hi Nev, yes I realised it was Imperial when I measured the outer and it came to 44.45mm and I twigged it was 1 3/4". I know a chap who runs a very good little engineering company specialising in automotive machining. I'll give him a ring and see if he needs the whole wheel stripped down to the hub.

Yes you will probably need to do that. It's too cumbersome assembled.. The Original bearings are quite expensive even if you can get them.
Also I don't think your frame is a W/NG as THEY have a slight downwards bend in the two tubes under the seat. to give a genuine 8"clearance frame.
You are better off with the "civilian" one for normal riding as it's less wind sensitive. Have you got a 19" wheel in the front? If so there''s nothing wrong with that either It looks quite nice if I might say so. 350's are easier to start also. Helpful if it stops in traffic. Nev

nevhunter wrote: Also I don't think your frame is a W/NG as THEY have a slight downwards bend in the two tubes under the seat. to give a genuine 8"clearance frame.
You are better off with the "civilian" one for normal riding as it's less wind sensitive. Have you got a 19" wheel in the front? If so there''s nothing wrong with that either It looks quite nice if I might say so. 350's are easier to start also. Helpful if it stops in traffic. Nev

The frame has no apparent trace of any field stand having been fitted in the past, and we know that the dealer in India who sold it to the previous owner 20+ years ago was to put it mildly, a cowboy. As far as I can tell, only the engine bottom half and possibly the frame were original W/NG. If you are right then it was quite probably a 'ringer' back in India.