Clutch Lever still feels heavy.

[garycullen]

Hi All

( such a lot if things to attend to nearing the end of this re-build project!)

1946 VB Tele rigid
After re-routing the cable, bushing the pivot hole in the lever, oiling the cable, reducing clutch plate spring pressure etc, I am still unhappy with the hand effort needed to operate the clutch. (It is useable but I guess it may be one of those subjective things...)
It incrementally improved with each time I changed something but I am now wondering about the strength of the clutch springs I have.
I have new cork friction plates and new plain steel plates.
A bunch of used springs came with the project pile of bits and I cleaned them up and matched up a set by height and wire gauge. They all seemed the same gauge but different heights.
Researching on the forum I find mention of slightly weaker springs being one of the fixes for heavy clutch operation .
Drag’s only seem to have one type and I am guessing these will be standard.

So my question is, do I need these weaker springs?
Another thought I have is that the cork plates being brand new and the bike has not been ridden yet, do things need to be “worked” and settled down?
Cheers
Gary

[Richard Kal]

Check the centre / centre distance for the handlebar lever pivot point.
7/8" will give the lightest clutch operation.
Richard

[nevhunter]

OLDER 1/2 rusty cables will have extra friction. Maybe try a new one that has not had water down it. Oil sufficiently with gear oil. Adjust your springs so they just slip and then give each an extra half turn. Nev

[Paul_Linden]

The lighter springs for use with cork clutch plates are available through club spares.

[dave.owen]

Gary, I assume you have a BA gearbox. Have you correctly set up the lever activated by the cable. It should be vertical when pulled in, over vertical will give a heavy clutch.
Dave

[simon.holyfield]

I take it the pushrod is straight?

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Buy a teflon lined cable, no lubrication needed .
It makes all the difference !

[will_curry]

As Vincent says a nylon-lined cable makes a big difference and so does
a decent cable route. My preference is to run the cable down the front downtube
and along the top of the primary chaincase. You'll need to fix the cable to the downtube
reasonably firmly - I use cable ties and they've worked well for a number of years.

Modern cables, even nylon-lined ones, are made with a wire outer which is much 'coarser'
than cables from the 50's which used a round wire. These earlier cables cope with tight
bends much better than modern cables and will work quite acceptably when routed under
the tank.

[garycullen]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.
Richard, I will check the centering of the lever.
Nev, cables are all new purchased from Drags and Feked.oiled by me with 90 grade gear oil.
Simon, push rod is also new, I bought the hardened end one from Drags so doesn’t need the ball.
Dave, something to check here as I hadn’t realised that being over centre height would of course make a big difference.
Vincent, I will buy a lined cable for this but have find a source for them.
Will, Cable is already run the way you advise.
Cheers
Gary

[nevhunter]

Revisit the tension of the springs. IF they are too long they may be coil bound. Nev