Finished article

[JohnnyBeckett]

HI John a very nice ariel ready to hit the road again nice job well done now go and enjoy it

[JohnReilly]

Simon/anyone with experience?
Re the back brake setting/adjustment attempts following your valid criticism of the photo posted.
I have tried every way possible to get the right angle but it seems to be not possible. No matter what I do it all rests on the the
brake cam and its square end that engages with the upward arm. this just will not provide the correct angle irrespective of whatever position the adjusting wedge is in.
If I move the arm 180 degrees as if it were a downwared arm, the angle is perfect for that setup.
I am wondering if perhaps I have a wrong part fitted somewhere, I see in the parts list that the upward arm has a different number than the downward arm and it seems that the cam is common.
I welcome any advice that may be forthcoming.
John

[Simon.Gardiner]

John
It's way back in the mists of time that I had a frame with the Anstey setup. I gave myself the problem with the brake locking on 'full bump' by first setting it up with 'downward lever' so I well remember that particular point. As I recall (hazily!) I didn't replace any components, so I'm racking the old brains a bit to come up with something useful.
As a first check, if you screw the fulcrum adjuster right in can you lock the wheel ? (If it doesn't I think that shows something is wrong on the 'inside'.) Otherwise, is it possible to turn the lever round and would that make any difference?

SG

[JohnReilly]

Simon,
Yes, if I screw the wedge in it will lock the brake and turning the lever does not improve matters, I have now resolved to make up a new lever arm.
I have tried looking up photos of similar bikes on the web but getting good resolution is difficult.
Thanks for your help.
John

[JohnReilly]

Only way was to make a new lever!

[nevhunter]

That looks about the standard length. I'm lead to believe the correct one is longer. Check with suspension compressed. This matter has come up before. The "square" has to be on a bias to the axis so the lever is square to the pull rod when fully applied. That means it can be assembled "backwards" (murphy's law) but that is pretty obvious IF you do it. It MAY be with the cam.. If you are making your own, make it right. Loose cam fit can help exaggerate the common problems (or bent backplate where the cam fits). Nev

[Simon.Gardiner]

Very nice job, John.
I've found this topic to be very puzzling. The '47 spares book lists different brake levers for rigid (4402-36) and spring (4402-39) frame wheels, but by 1952 (in the books) it reverted to the same levers (4402-36) for both.
And as you've noted the cams are always the same.

Still, glad you got it so nicely sorted.

SG

[JohnReilly]

Thank you Nev & Simon,
I made the new lever to the pattern of the one that was on the bike, I did consider making it longer as it would provide a greater moment but the trade-off is less clearance/greater travel so I left it as was. I find the brakes, both front and rear quite poor.
John

[Simon.Gardiner]

..... I find the brakes, both front and rear quite poor.
John

If you've got new stuck-on linings they'll need a lot of bedding down....!

SG

[simon.holyfield]

I used the 'sandpaper taped to brake drum' technique to good effect on mine.