'40 W/NG "Scrambler"

[T Batnes]

Have been reading all the threads in this brilliant forum regarding remote oil filters pros and cons, and I feel that the OCD part of me need an oil filter on the oil return line. The pump has no problems pressing the oil through, I get an even trickle of oil out of the return pipe in the tank just by turning the engine over by the kick starter. Oil filter was filled up with oil before fitting.

[nevhunter]

There's no need to prefill a filter in the return line. It's going to have air in it as part of the return flow anyhow.. I always remove the oil tank at each oil change and shake it with nuts and kero in it, to dislodge any sludge that settles on the bottom when the bike is unused. I also have made drain plugs with magnets in them which will take care of any ferrous particles. One of your biggest problems with these motors is the corrosion of ball/roller races in under used bikes. The oil on a single never really gets very hot and water can condense in the oil if you don't do longer runs.. I don't overfill the tank for this reason and would rather change the oil a bit more often.. Nev

[john.whiting]

If you ve ever had a crankpin and rollers break up in a engine,you will be a committed filter user ...the sharp hard steel chips do bulk damage as they circulate,and embed in any softer metal from bushings to piston skirts.....The filter doesnt stop damage to the return part of the oilpump,but thats the lesser of evils.

[nevhunter]

That's exactly right John. Often your first sign is the oil smoke coming out behind you when the scavenge side of the pump fails and the bulk of your oil tank contents ends up in the engine. Crankpins with rollers have a finite life. They don't wear out in the normal sense. The hard surface fatigues and flakes off the core depending on mileage and how hard you run it. I know of one original 39 500 RH that did over 100,000 MILES with an easy life and one owner and other thrashers who get no more than about 8,000 Miles or less.. If you've been brought up on high revving little bikes you tend to run our stuff too much in the gears. . Back when they were new I found about 30,000 miles was about enough for a 500 OHV of any brand more or less if you wanted to keep it in good reliable order. There weren't many roads where you could comfortably run much above 40 MPH and some are still the same today unfortunately (for rigid bikes). Nev

[T Batnes]

A day of cosmetic finishing touches today - norwegian front registration number plate UK style. Rear end will have to be black on white, to be legit.

Rear registration number plate in the making, trying the letters for size and position before painting. It has now got the mudguard bracket welded on, and has been painted black and white. Letter/numbers to be alu-rivetted on as soon as all dries up.

[JohnnyBeckett]

very nice number plates i like the rivets did you make the numbers and letters and the bike is looking good

[T Batnes]

Not too bad, had to touch up the border between white and black a little (crappy masking tape!), and try to polish it a bit when properly dry. But hey, it's a reg. number plate already. Legit too.

[T Batnes]

[JohnnyBeckett]

that looks a very nice job you have done it looks well made to

[T Batnes]

Further cosmetic tinkering, while waiting for tools to fix issues with my head (cylinder head that is...) - a "Difusa" flat glass for the head light, along with an H4 reflector from Paul Goff, some small decals here and there and a rather large decal on the petrol tank, nodding to the WD-past - it's a war survivor after all. You may or may not like it, but it's my bike