I have spent an inordinate amount of time and money having the original carb refurbished, restated the needle valve , checked the float , and still it leaks stops when running.
Can any one advise on a non original replacement ? As it is impossible when starting to stop any petrol spilling onto th HT lead connection.
Thanks.
Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
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Re: Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
Looking back at your earlier posts I see that you have a 276 Amal fitted.
The Amal documentation for the 1935 NG lists a 75/014 carb which is
7/8" bore and has a 64/089 float chamber with a 14 degree angle.
Any appropriately sized Amal monobloc or concentric should handle
the 14 degree downdraft but setting it up may well require quite a lot
of experimentation.
The Amal documentation for the 1935 NG lists a 75/014 carb which is
7/8" bore and has a 64/089 float chamber with a 14 degree angle.
Any appropriately sized Amal monobloc or concentric should handle
the 14 degree downdraft but setting it up may well require quite a lot
of experimentation.
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Re: Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
If the carb leaks when the engine is stopped, which is what I assume you mean, then either the float needle is not seating correctly or the float chamber is at the wrong height, which is a common problem and why these carbs are also known as 'old leaky'. An additional washer between the float chamber and mixing chamber to lower the fuel level in the mixing chamber until it is level with the top of the union nut at the bottom of the mixing chamber can be used to cure the problem. These are perfectly good carbs but can be a little trying at times, all part and parcel of owning some imperfect technology unlike modern vehicles that work perfectly until they don't, then cannot be fixed without lots of technology, skill and money, certainly not by the home mechanic.
Roger Gwynn, Membership Secretary, curator of the Machine Register and the works drawings. Director of Draganfly Motorcycles, Craven Equipment and Supreme Motorcycles mostly retired.
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Re: Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
One non original parts would be this :
But better is to follow Roger's tips![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
But better is to follow Roger's tips
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Re: Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
Thanks all, I will keep trying !
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Re: Ariel ng 1936/Carburettor Enquiries
The Jet BLOCK has to be a good fit in the Main body of the carb idle passages near the Intake and there are 2 types which do NOT interchange. The earlier one has a lot of holes and the idle screw (mixture) with the little spring on it, when removed you can see right through. It's not pluggedonthe other side This type is not suitable for fitting an air cleaner as it will admit more dust than the one in the Picture above. Diemetal bodies are sometimes not worth spending money on. Not all early bikes had them. It's sometimes referred to as MAZAK.
BSA Rudge Norton Had BRASS bodies' polished and nickelled in the Late 20's on some models. Those carbs are worth rebuilding and there has always been some aftermarket ones around for the Eagle eyed fellows. AMAL and AMAC .Carburetters can run beautifully when set up as supplied.. Same goes for BINKS which are on AJS of the period and SOME SCOTTS. If a carb runs well on a 2 stroke it will run well on anything. Nev
BSA Rudge Norton Had BRASS bodies' polished and nickelled in the Late 20's on some models. Those carbs are worth rebuilding and there has always been some aftermarket ones around for the Eagle eyed fellows. AMAL and AMAC .Carburetters can run beautifully when set up as supplied.. Same goes for BINKS which are on AJS of the period and SOME SCOTTS. If a carb runs well on a 2 stroke it will run well on anything. Nev
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