Draganfly clutch plates

[Bob Tuck]

Hi Simon, after studying the detail it would appear that the thick washers that go in first at the back of the drum are there to reduce the amount you can compress the spring and lower the lever effort, the thin washers go on the head of the sleeve nuts and spread the load and slightly increase the spring tension. so they work in opposition to each other . I guess the nuts are not adjustable and are fully tightened, any adjustment will need additional washers on a weak spring .

[will_curry]

One issue I have had with pattern clutch plates is that they have been significantly thinner
than the original. It's been a long time since I worked on an Arrow clutch and I can't
remember the set-up that well but is it possible that the pressure plate is fouling the
clutch centre and so not compressing the plates fully?

[bh.sprint]

I used two types of modern material on the clutch plates and found both to give clutch drag even though the max amount of movement was being used and sometimes slip. Tried adding slots to the surface but this did not make any difference, although I have heard of others using slots and reported a better action. Eventually used some of the clutch plates from Villiers Services but needed to use with an old cork one because the plates were too thick.
The original cork ones are approx 1 m/m thick for the cork and 1.5 m/m thick for the plate.
Not had too much trouble finding 20 grade oil at auto jumbles and even used fork oil but think I've seen it in other places like Machine Mart and model engineers suppliers.
All my bikes have the washer in the clutch spring assembly. Used nylon lined cable and smoothed out the cable run as much as possible and have the adjuster on the straight run of the cable or near the front lever, this has made quite a difference but there are some cable divices which go in the mid cable and it is said make the clutch much easier.
The cork clutch plates came from Cranston Engineering- not cheap but they do work well, also seen some on e-bay.

Brian H.

[Bob Tuck]

I have found a supply of refurbished plates with a cork material. if any good i will post details.

[Bernie Blundell]

Bugger, I was hoping the filthy oil & the not fully tightened nuts was my problem

[Bernie Blundell]

SAE 20 oil available here .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373440346616 .... prompt delivery via royal mail

[Roger Gwynn]

Suggest you try the parts book to find the part numbers, books available to members FOC or can be bought, washers are available. Strange that Draganfly have not heard of any problems with these plates, I use them in a Leader clutch on my slightly modified short stroke 500 that goes like stink, ask Lew Wallwork! I do occasionally get a bit of slip after fitting new plates, I just run it gently until bedded in a bit. All clutches run dry even in an oil filled case because when the clutch is spinning the oil flies away as if by magic or possibly centipedal force. I don't think you should be blaming the plates, when by your own admission the clutch has parts missing and has the wrong oil. Ordinary sae 30 or 20/50 is fine as is ATP

[Bob Tuck]

The Draganfly plates have no radial grooving to allow oil to centrifuge off . The missing thick washers actually are there to reduce clutch spring pressure so better to leave off. I have no experience of a working Arrow clutch ,am repeating what others tell me. Don't shoot the messenger !

[Roger Gwynn]

No indeed but the washers under the spring nuts will make a difference. I tried various thickness washers to find a compromise between slip and a heavy clutch. Due to my set up my lever are different on the gearbox and handlebar, which causes some problems.

[Bernie Blundell]

Yay, back in one bit bit at last, faults were .. filthy oil + nuts not fully tightened + operating arm incorrect adjustment, dragonfly plates currently working a treat