Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Singles, twins and fours.
Post Reply
User avatar
brenton.roy
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 2056
Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2011 1:13 pm
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Contact:

Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Post by brenton.roy »

Adjusting chains
First, adjust the primary chain. You’ll need to remove the inspection cap and poke your finger in. About ½” up and down is right. It’s good to do this when the engine isn’t running.
Check the oil level while you are there. It should be just touching the bottom of the chain. You'll need a torch..
There are Gearbox 3 nuts to work with. Loosen the top gearbox locknut and bottom pivot bolt (see photo’s) and pivot the gearbox to adjust. There is an adjuster nut (left of top photo) for this purpose. It’s a little sloppy, so I set this so that when I tighten the nuts up, it will try to stop the primary chain being pulled tighter if the rear chain moves.
Lift the rear section of guard and tie back, so you can see what you are doing. I took the toolbox off to replace the adjusters. This isn’t required for chain adjustments.
*A little work on the threads of the rear axle adjusters is worthwhile. These should be easily worked by your fingers.
Loosen both rear axle nuts.
Start with the chain side of the rear wheel.
Adjust (with the adjuster) until chain tension is “about right”.
Spin the wheel at all times in the direction of normal rotation.
Check the alignment of the chain links over the sprocket teeth.
You can see in the photo’s that mine has been wrongly aligned at some point. The left side of the teeth are damaged. Bad alignment can also cause wear inside the primary case.
Use the right hand adjuster to get the sprocket teeth central in the chain as you spin the wheel (correct direction, not backwards).
Part tighten the axle nuts.
You may find the chain is now a little loose or tight. Work both adjusters the same amount until the chain is just free. Adjust more free play if you have a bike with rear suspension.
While you are there, check the chain for tight spots and make sure the closed end of the joining link is pointing toward the gearbox when it is on the top of the rear sprocket.
Attachments
It's good to be able to work freely and see what you are doing. Tie the hinged part of the rear guard up.
It's good to be able to work freely and see what you are doing. Tie the hinged part of the rear guard up.
Check the chain free play.
Check the chain free play.
Two nuts here. Centre is main lock nut. Left is the adjuster.<br />Yes, I know the oil tank nut is missing!
Two nuts here. Centre is main lock nut. Left is the adjuster.
Yes, I know the oil tank nut is missing!
Bottom gearbox pivot bolt.
Bottom gearbox pivot bolt.
A loose chain can rub on the inner primary if it is out of alignment. That can be expensive.
A loose chain can rub on the inner primary if it is out of alignment. That can be expensive.
If these are able to be worked easily with your fingers, the job will be much easier.
If these are able to be worked easily with your fingers, the job will be much easier.
Looks about right to me.
Looks about right to me.
See the damage to the sprocket on the left, and the incorrect alignment.
See the damage to the sprocket on the left, and the incorrect alignment.
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
User avatar
john.nash
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1195
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:46 pm
Location: Herefordshire. Mud capital of the world
Contact:

Re: Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Post by john.nash »

Oh. Me. Me. Pick Me!!
I've got a tip about the secondary chain (the ones that drives the back wheel).

Modern chains are sightly wider that originals, I believe, especially the joining link with it's little clip.
You may find it hits the primary case, when it goes around the gearbox sprocket.

The way around this is to firstly put the split link on the inside of the chain (i.e. facing the wheel) AND/OR you space the primary case out slightly, around the clutch area.
You'll find that there is a larger bolt at the bottom, sometimes part of the gearbox bottom pivot, and you can drop one or two washers on this between inner primary chain case and frame. It usually doesn't take many as the chain interference is factional.

Shall we let this thread finish, Brenton, and then I'll pick it up and turn it into a pdf as the first "how to" ??
I been looking at Paul Linden's colt thread with the same idea but there is so much there that it's almost standalone as itself ...guy's a genuis.
John Nash
AOMCC No.4119
''78 t140 bonneville, '77 BMW R80, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, '51 VH500, '49 project Ariel , '47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '42 indian 741b, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....
User avatar
brenton.roy
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 2056
Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2011 1:13 pm
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Post by brenton.roy »

Hi John,
Thanks for the tip.
I'm hoping that others will find better ways / additions and address faults before we close the topic.
Can't compete with Paul! - either of them... and yes he is.
Brenton
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
john.whiting
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1837
Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 2:10 pm
Location: Brisbane QLD
Contact:

Post by john.whiting »

Ariels have a funny little quirk,which upsets owners no end.The primary chain breaks and comes out through the case.It doesnt seem to happen with other bikes ,not that Ive seen anyway.I allways fit a rivetted joining link in the primary chain.At one time race scrutineers would reject a bike with spring clip links fitted,to either chain.Regards John.
User avatar
john.nash
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1195
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:46 pm
Location: Herefordshire. Mud capital of the world
Contact:

Re: Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Post by john.nash »

Completed PDF ...

we all happy with this ?
Attachments
How to adjust chains.pdf
(600.05 KiB) Downloaded 124 times
John Nash
AOMCC No.4119
''78 t140 bonneville, '77 BMW R80, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, '51 VH500, '49 project Ariel , '47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '42 indian 741b, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....
User avatar
keith.mettam
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Posts: 515
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:46 pm
Location: Kent UK
Contact:

Post by keith.mettam »

Couple of errors on first page John, viz:-
' the chain should be just touching the bottom of the chain'.....presumably 'the oil should be just touching the bottom of the chain' and also 'There are gearbox 3 nuts to work with'....again I guess it should read ' There are 3 gearbox nuts to work with'.
Other than that can't see much else wrong although I would personally check the primary chain for tight spots before adjusting it and double check afterwards.
All the best ,
Keith Mettam.
User avatar
john.nash
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1195
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:46 pm
Location: Herefordshire. Mud capital of the world
Contact:

Re: Servicing - Adjusting Chains

Post by john.nash »

John Nash
AOMCC No.4119
''78 t140 bonneville, '77 BMW R80, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, '51 VH500, '49 project Ariel , '47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '42 indian 741b, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest