Valve adjusters on singles

Singles, twins and fours.
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Vincent.vanGinneke
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Valve adjusters on singles

Post by Vincent.vanGinneke »

Hi,

Anyone having knowledge of using Triumph valve adjusters in singles?
I just bought 2 adjusters intended for a T120, they are the same thread as Ariel.
26G x 5/8"
Advantage over Ariel ones is that they have a inbus socket for adjusting and they come with Dural nut (Oh yeah! higher revs!!)
They have a mushroom head so a larger contact area on the valve cap (??or is this wishfull thinking?)
The only handycap is that they are a bit longer so you need to check if they don't hit the inside of the cap nut, original caps (as from Pete Kemp) have enough clearance.
Another snag is that because of them having a 'mushroom' head you can not fit them in from above, you need to remove the rocker boxes to fit.
Now I have seen Yamaha XS650 adjusters on the www.
They have the inbus socket but not the mushroom, and are a bit shorter, but what is the thread? metric or inch?
Someone knows ? Vincent.
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Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Valve adjusters on singles

Post by Vincent.vanGinneke »

Hi, Just found out that the XS650 adjuster does not have the same thread.
nevhunter
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Post by nevhunter »

Think I tried them years ago. Don't have any running on my stuff now. Think the main problem was that they can't be wound up far enough if the valve is worn into the seat, or other wise a bit long. Can you guys get good reliable caps?. I would like to be sure that they are good material. Nev
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Re: Valve adjusters on singles

Post by Vincent.vanGinneke »

Hello Nev, You mean the rockerboxcaps or the valve stem caps?
I found that the rockerboxcaps with inside the script 'Made in england' 'MCE-RB3' are deep enough.
Got them from Pete Kemp. Vincent
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Post by nevhunter »

Vincent, Valve stem caps. I have been making my own but would prefer a qualitycontrolled product, if I can source it. Thanks Nev
Paul Slootheer

Re: Valve adjusters on singles

Post by Paul Slootheer »

Hello Vincent,
The Triumph bronze coloured mushroom valve adjusters I once fitted on my 1933 RH where a good choice I remember. They have indeed a greater contact area with the caps and also a nice shaped radius which permit to follow the movement of the rockers with ease. The dowside, as you mentioned, is the fact you have to dismantle the rockers to screw them in, but that’s only once….
Regards, Paul :D
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Post by john.whiting »

Nev, I would use John Deere valve caps for the 3/8 stem, originally exhaust, in the 500. Mine has 3/8 stems for both valves ,using a cut down JD inlet with a hard seat and a hardchrome stem.These are good for 5000hours [ in a tractor],a sight better than the soft rubbish sold by suppliers as replicas of the originals . I use the same in my Norton. Regards John.
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Post by nevhunter »

Thanks John. These days everyone says "atainless valves". There's a lot of different stainless steel alloys, and some of them "gall" badly in the guides. Think you have to go into it quite a bit to get a good result. Nev
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Post by john.whiting »

Nev, I must add that JD caps are 3/8 ID, so they wont suit the genuine valve, which has a reduced end to match the 11/32 inlet. The only caps I ever found to fit the originals were Austin truck parts, and that was many years ago. If you cut a valve you need a hardened cap, or the end will mushroom, just like the replicas do .When people buy a part now ,it must be beautifully finished, nothing else seems to matter.Soft stainless ,CNC machined,is what they get. Quality valves are available for Harleys, but the ones Ive checked were all too short by about 1/4 in. so I make do with something I have already got. Regards John.
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Post by nevhunter »

THANKS jOHN. I have always made them (the caps). as I can't trust the aftermarket thing, but I have always heat-treated my own stuff and I would not consider it marketable quality even though i haven't had a failure. IF you find good stuff help the guy who is making it to stay in business as we need good quality stuff if we are going to keep these bikes reliable. The older R&M bigends seemed good but I have had and know of quite a few low life Bigends. Some stuff is not made from the optimum metal. Example shafts (running rollers) made of 8620. I don't believe this is good enough and some metallurgists are recommending Nitriding for big end pins. This is not a suitable metal or hardening process for that purpose. It's OK if the bearing is plain, but not for rollers. Nev
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