Just fitted the new key.....its as "snug as a bug in a rug" compared to the old. I would say about .0005" clearance as opposed to considerbale play in the old...probably in excess of 0.002". It also definitely showed signs of fretting on the shaft portion of the key. I'm hoping, as per Mark's experience, goes a long way to tightening things up.
Cam
MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Cam
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Hi All
The Henkel site runs a comparison engine between different Loctite products.....I have more confidence in this than some of the chat rooms that pop up! Looks like 648 is the appropriate option, given the interference fit.
Link below;
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/br/en/ ... e_648.html
Cam
The Henkel site runs a comparison engine between different Loctite products.....I have more confidence in this than some of the chat rooms that pop up! Looks like 648 is the appropriate option, given the interference fit.
Link below;
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/br/en/ ... e_648.html
Cam
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Should there be any discernible clearance between a Woodruff key and the crankshaft? I've not removed the connecting gears on mine yet, but every other engine I have worked on has had very tight Woodruff keys. They have needed to be driven out of place and on rebuilding with new ones, they needed to be tapped in.
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Hi Allan
It's not an interference, but pretty snug. Roger Gwynn advised the tolerance is between 0 and .002", so on that basis I would appear to be in a good place. As above, the original key had about 0.002 to 0.003" , and had signs of fretting on the shaft portion.
Cam
It's not an interference, but pretty snug. Roger Gwynn advised the tolerance is between 0 and .002", so on that basis I would appear to be in a good place. As above, the original key had about 0.002 to 0.003" , and had signs of fretting on the shaft portion.
Cam
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Ahh, I see. It sounds like yours is fine now.
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
648 is what I settled on for the VHcamstevens wrote:Hi All
The Henkel site runs a comparison engine between different Loctite products.....I have more confidence in this than some of the chat rooms that pop up! Looks like 648 is the appropriate option, given the interference fit.
I made a call to Loctite tech support about the various specs - albeit 4 years ago, and I've not checked the specs since.
At June 2017:
Loctite 648 - should be OK, new formulation is slightly better performer, but at 200C performance goes off a cliff
Loctite 6300 - thinner than 648 but not as strong (648 is 30%-50% stronger), but less heat degradation (NB no toleration of oil on surfaces)
Loctite 620 - higher temp but thicker to apply so likely to get pushed out of the surfaces
SG
Web admin (webmaster@arielownersmcc.com)
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
When this problem appeared on my 4G, shortly after the rebuild, I put the gears back on with Loctite 620. Getting on for 3000 miles later, the problem is still solved - but I don't tow a double adult sidecar around with the bike!
Paul Jameson
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35 LG (project), 37 RH500, 52 ex ISDT KHA, 54 KH(A), 75 Healey 1000/4.
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist (but not Machine Registrar), Gauges and Clocks Spares Organiser.
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Hi Simes
I think I used 620 loctite .
Cam,
As for the new woodruff key - I had to press it into the shaft as there was no discernible play . ( Also using a press helped ensure it was straight and unlikely to shift / ride up as the coupling was pressed on.)
- Another check - engage the woodruff key separately on the coupling before reassembly in case there is play there instead.
Good luck
Mark
I think I used 620 loctite .
Cam,
As for the new woodruff key - I had to press it into the shaft as there was no discernible play . ( Also using a press helped ensure it was straight and unlikely to shift / ride up as the coupling was pressed on.)
- Another check - engage the woodruff key separately on the coupling before reassembly in case there is play there instead.
Good luck
Mark
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Hi Mark
Actually, my woodruff key is a tighter fit than I thought (interference) as I hadn't pressed it all the way to the base of the shaft slot. However, there is about 0.002" play in the gear slot. The loctite is really designed for curved mating surfaces, so not sure if it would help to "pack out" the gear slot.
Apparently 0.002" play is within alowable tolerance, but I do have 0.002" shim, but I'm not sure if it would be practical to use.
Cam
Actually, my woodruff key is a tighter fit than I thought (interference) as I hadn't pressed it all the way to the base of the shaft slot. However, there is about 0.002" play in the gear slot. The loctite is really designed for curved mating surfaces, so not sure if it would help to "pack out" the gear slot.
Apparently 0.002" play is within alowable tolerance, but I do have 0.002" shim, but I'm not sure if it would be practical to use.
Cam
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Re: MK1 - Possible Rear Crank Gear Play
Hello Cam,camstevens wrote:
Apparently 0.002" play is within allowable tolerance, but I do have 0.002" shim, but I'm not sure if it would be practical to use.
Cam
Do you mean it is not a practical proposition to try and fit the shim, or that you feel it would be of no practical benefit?
Allan.
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