W/NG upgrades and improvements I made

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

'upgrades' I did to Burney:

'Tufonised' with a 1951 iron 500cc single port and '51 BA .
milled the post '53 crankcase vent in behind chaincase.

extended this crankcase vent and the timing case vent (done away with the ball valve) with rubber tubing to near rear wheel spindle.

A664 cam wich is the prewar Red Hunter cam and post war Sidevalve cam, 29mm above rim of head with cam down.

Monobloc 389 with chrome slide on Norton Commando inlet track to clear top of dynamo.
Alton 12V generator, latest version that actually works. http://alton-france.com/generators/#gen2
Beck Elektronika electronic ingnition https://www.beckelektronika.nl/
made oil level sight from clear tubing on primary chaincase from oil level hole to a newly made hole at lowest point (position where the drain plug is on later swingarm cases).
Standard piston/valves/valvesprings.
Camshaft housing oil level modification to have cam dipping in oil.
23T front sprocket, the rest standard.
12V LED front http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c ... s-shop.php
12V LED rear from Beck Elektronika.
12V Odyssey PC310 battery
Garmin Zumo 390LM.

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Steel box with oak lid.
Battery rests on internal ledge, ignition below it in separate compartiment.

12V connection for Garmin.

Altette with 12V Nippon claxon

Drive to Alton by fixed magdyno gear, I think from a twin?

[roger.fellows]

What, no starter motor? It's no longer a 'Burney', but it looks brilliant Vincent.

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Sorry, no elek starter on this one, but I could plug in heated grips ?

[pete.collings]

I think the fixed dynamo drive wheel was used on wartime bikes fitted with a magdyno, where the relatively short life expectancy of the bike did not need the complexity of a slipping clutch drive. I have brought several of these fixed drive wheels at autojumbles, and they appear on EBay quite often.
They cure the problem of poor charging on high electrical demand due to an oil soaked slipping clutch setup.
If looking for one, be aware they come with both a narrow and wider fibre drive wheel, and I have also seen new fibre wheels at autojumbles, although I have never tried to fit one, not having any suitable rivits.

[simon.holyfield]

Folks,

Standard W/NG main jet is, according to the Amal catalogue, a size 120. Seems pretty small, as my Bantam runs a 90...

What are you all using? I saw that at the beginning of this thread, Webmaster John suggested he was using a larger jet in a 1" 276?

[admin]

Folks,

Standard W/NG main jet is, according to the Amal catalogue, a size 120. Seems pretty small, as my Bantam runs a 90...

What are you all using? I saw that at the beginning of this thread, Webmaster John suggested he was using a larger jet in a 1" 276?

Nope
I am using the same as the later NH - 1" carb with a 150 main jet.

[nevhunter]

A bigger carb makes the main jet size a bit more elastic. There's less velocity? suction and you might need a bigger jet than you thought might work , It only affects the last bit of throttle . Doing extra tuning makes the bigger carb more suitable, and tune better. Like say a slightly bigger inlet valve and a bit of port shaping to match the carb as well as a slight increase in compression and use the 664 cam. It then breathes better and has a bit more oomph. Remember it still has the cast wheels flywheels Use the steel ones if you're serious . I've just confined my trusty one to the cam change. With a brand new head it's generally gone quite well. and I'm not built like a Jockey. Nev

[simon.holyfield]

I've recently realised, due to some help from the forum in another thread, that I have a 276AD from a Triumph 3HW - this is a 1" carb. It's jetted with a 120; I don't know what the needle jet and slide cutaway are yet, as I'm waiting for some parts before I take it to bits.

I've bought a 150 main jet and a new 107 needle jet to experiment with.