Engine plates

specifications, colours, contract nos, variations etc
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nevhunter
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Re: Engine plates

Post by nevhunter »

I do have both plates and the holes are identical on both. Nev
wade.edwards
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Re: Engine plates

Post by wade.edwards »

OK, that settles it Nev. I can go ahead and drill out my other set of plates. Cheers :D
nevhunter
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Re: Engine plates

Post by nevhunter »

Be careful as the holes intersect. I would do it in a mill with a short drill (or mill) like a centre bit. Use the large diameter (3/8) after using a pilot hole. Nev
wade.edwards
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Re: Engine plates

Post by wade.edwards »

Just when I thought it was full speed ahead...

Looking again at the one engine plate I have with two holes (pictured in previous post) I noticed that the two side by side holes are spaced equally from the foot rest pin and that where they intersect is directly opposite the pin.

I then look at the plate I intend to drill and see that the existing single hole is not directly opposite and centrally located from the pin. It is offset.

I think that there is a difference between W/NG hole locations and civvy hole locations. I am doing plates for two W/NGs but only one set came off an actual W/NG. The other set is from my stores and who knows what they were originally attached to?

Can anyone else confirm that hole locations are different on the WD machines when two holes lie side by side? Do I now need to weld the offset hole in the plate with only one hole and re-bore two new holes centered directly across from the pin?

If I am not clear enough I will have to post a picture of the plate with one hole to show that it is not directly across from the pin and by boring another hole next to it, it will not look like the plate in the posted pic. :shock:
nevhunter
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Re: Engine plates

Post by nevhunter »

I can't confirm the actual intersect position, but it isn't horizontal from the pin. They are equidistant from the pin centre, as you have determined.Why would this dimension have to be so accurate? It must be due to the steel primary having a different hole position for the footrest support, but there is no tight fit involved so a 1/16th or so shouldn't be of great import when the distance is over 3/8" to the new position. It is always better to get it right, I know, if one can get the facts. Might I suggest comparing the steel case with the alum. one. Outer cover would be sufficient. If you are still in strife let us know. Does anyone have covers to compare off the machine? Nev
wade.edwards
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Re: Engine plates

Post by wade.edwards »

I've made the changes to the plates for additional optional holes. The only way to get it correct is to be careful with the alignment.

The foot rest support must be held tightly against the pin when turning the support upwards. Turn it just enough so that when looking down the bore of the support, the bore hole just intersects with the original bore hole. Then clamp the support to the engine plate with vice grips to hold in place. Next, drop a centering pin through the bore hole. This is the kind of pin with a center tip. Tap with a hammer and there is the exact center for drilling.

I screwed the engine plates to a short piece of 2x4 so that they could be clamped in the mill vice. This keeps it flat and prevents it from going anywhere.

Don't know for sure that these holes are necessary as I am yet to install the engine and steel primary cases but I don't want to find out that it is necessary after it is all painted and installed.
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