MO1L bearing removal

General electrical problems
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brenton.roy
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MO1L bearing removal

Post by brenton.roy »

Does anyone know how to remove MO1l armature outer races - particularly the one inside the case?
There doesn't look to be an easy way. I did think about drilling a couple of holes into the case but expect there is a better way!
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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Eero.Korhonen
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Re: MO1L bearing removal

Post by Eero.Korhonen »

I used sharp L-shaped iron from that armature hole,
but I think that's not going to work for you.
Drilling maybe two small holes and tap them out
might do the trick. There should be paper insulation,
maybe yours is glued.
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Post by Graham.Goral »

Can you get in with a mig torch to weld something across the outer race, to allow it to be drifted out?
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Re:

Post by Knud.Degnbol »

Graham.Goral wrote:Can you get in with a mig torch to weld something across the outer race, to allow it to be drifted out?
I have done that often with steering head bearings and wheel bearings in cars, but I would not dare to do it in a magneto. Not with all that current flowing through.
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Post by daithomas »

Unless the bearing tracks are pitted leave them alone, check for continuity between the bearing outer and the mag body with a test meter on highest ohms range, there should be no continuity if you get a reading they need to be removed and fitted with a new paper washer. the washers that I had from Tony Cooper were the correct thickness. Beware of too thick washers as they tend to cut rather than fit.
If you don't have the proper expanding puller they can be tapped out with a slightly bent drift.
You need to make a nylon or wood drift to fit the bearings (non magnetic)
Make sure that the bearing bores are radiused and polished so as not to cut the paper insulating washer on assembly

Look on the site below in the BSA service sheets section, it's sheet no. 801

http://www.classicrider.dk/english/tech ... Sheets.php

hope this helps
Dai
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brenton.roy
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Post by brenton.roy »

Thanks everyone. I'd prefer to leave it in, but it's a little rusty.
I have one of those right angle screwdrivers and will try that to tap it out. I have a small press for installation.
I have downloaded all the info I can find, and assuming the windings are ok (looks to be), should be able to rebuild the mag. The slip ring was broken and judging by what looks like arc damage around the pickup, it would have been running badly.
There are a couple of possible capacitors mentioned on the internet, so I should be ok there.
I'll report back.
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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Eero.Korhonen
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Re: MO1L bearing removal

Post by Eero.Korhonen »

Hello,
I have done this capacitor change once, but can't remember
the values. I think it was 500 V and something.
Basically, you take old one off and solder new one in.
Then you have to put epoxy to that pothole, because
modern version is so much smaller.
How about this:
http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm
Have anyone tried these?
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Ariel VH 1954, IZH 350 1962, H-D Sportster Hugger 1992, AOMCC Member 133
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Post by ian.scott »

I have had both my VH and A7SS magnetos rebuilt by them and had their capacitor fitted with great results both times. Really quick turn round as well

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brenton.roy
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Post by brenton.roy »

Thanks Eero and Ian, yes, I have one that I have bought as a 'just in case', but as the armature is apart for the slip ring, I thought I would put a capacitor in the correct place. As much as anything, I would like to learn about how the magneto works.
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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