ANTI-WET SUMPING VALVE, STAINLESS

[Reg.Webster]

Hi
Time to sort the chronic wet sumping on my Huntmaster, on eBay this item seems the best, Item number: 390565196685
It seems stainless is best, any advice/warnings before I purchase this item?
Thanks
Reg

[Steven.Carter]

I have the same one on my Huntmaster and have had no problems. Done around 20,000 miles so far with it fitted.
Steve

[Richard Kal]

It will do the job, but bleeding the air out after installation is critical, otherwise the pump won't prime and you could run the timing bush dry.

All you have to do is remove the spark plugs, then remove the oil pressure valve assembly.

Then crank the engine over until a small continuous flow of oil trickles out of the relief valve cavity.

This proves the air has purged fronm the line, and the pump is primed.

Now your wet sumping will be reduced a lot!

Richard

[nevhunter]

IS it the spring loaded variety? The ones you turn on and off are known to cause problems when left off.( which will happen ONE day.)
Sumping is not fun. Gear and trochoidal pumps do it Nev

[Steven.Carter]

It has a spring and ball fitted, I certainly couldn't be trusted with a tap

[nevhunter]

Velocettes have a light spring. I have found them satisfactory. Nev

[adrie.degraaff]

I certainly couldn't be trusted with a tap

No one could.

[david.anderson]

I know of several failures that are attributed to the spring loaded ball sticking and starving the engine of oil. They are also known to reduce oil pressure, particularly at idle. I would not consider using one unless the bike was also fitted with an oil pressure gauge so that I could keep an eye on things.
http://www.ironjohns.com/ was supplying goof proof manual taps that connected to either magneto or coil ignition bikes. They were a very neat tap that incorporated a switch and 100% reliable. They do not appear to be listed at the moment but he may be worth an email.
David

[Roderick.Bradley]

I've gone 3000 miles on a brass anti-sumping spring loaded valve on a 1955 Ariel KH with no problems so far. However, I always check the oil return at the oil tank whenever I start up just like we used to do in the old days. Since the valve was fitted, the amount of flow doesn't seem any different.

I have a Velocette type fitted to an AJS twin but my friend who fitted the same Velocette device in a Norton single had the engine seize on the way back from MOT after winter lay-up. The ball had rusted solid to its seat because of a drop of condensation sinking to bottom of the oil tank & into the valve. Curiously I never heard of this happening to a Velocette in the old days, perhaps because bikes weren't laid up then or maybe the plating on this Velocette component was better than with later pattern parts or whatever. Velocette usually did things well but then they made singles which only need a trickle of oil for lubrication.

An anti-sumping valve fitted ignition cut-out switch for AMC singles & twins is still being regularly advertised in the AJS & Matchless Club mag by A.W. Dove, 322 Skip Lane, Walsall, WS5 3RA, Tel: 01922 623571. Email:andrewdove@sky.com. I've not used one to date myself but have never heard a complaint. Plenty of chat about

Because old bikes are no longer used everyday, there's simply no avoiding doing something to prevent wet-sumping.

Rod

[nevhunter]

the Velocettes have quite a high volume oil flow and that is one of the reasons the motor keeps going at high throttle. I think a venom was one of the first to do 100 miles in one hour on some track somewhere.
Bikes used infrequently are a problem. I reckon all gadgets can fail. Unless the rate of flow is pretty chronic all you have to do is drain the sump and find some use for the oil. I usually top up with fresh oil. IF the return pump works well it only takes a minute or so for the oil to return to the tank. The main problem is the smoke ( sometimes) and the difficulty of starting the motor if it is very cold and it is a "largish" engine. Nev