1952 KH

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robjameson
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by robjameson »

Also test fitted the rear mudguard, which will require some fettling.

For the benefit of Keith, there are a few close ups of the finished end.
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robjameson
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by robjameson »

Another
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by robjameson »

Managed to get a start on some spraying today, laid some filler primer on to some bits. All cellulose. I think I have about another 4 days work in spraying alone. Shame work gets in the way sometimes!
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by robjameson »

I seem to have been spending a huge amount of time doing paint prep work over the last few weeks. Pays off though, paintwork is all in the prep work.

More to come...
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by Keith.owen »

Rob,
What an amazing job.

A lot is talked about cellulose, but what I can say from personal experience is that if done properly it lasts well.

Last time around when I had my bike painted (in 1976, yes 1976) the painting was done for me by a friend and the finish was excellent. It really is all in the preparation.

I too, like you, got a blank from Drags, but looking at what you have had done, I'm confident that I can sort it.

I real problem is with painting. Last time I tried in the garden I ended up with pollen and insects, although I did use acrylic and it doesn't dry so fast as cellulose. Problem is that I always seem to be working when weather conditions are optimal (and now I laying a patio and making a new shed - have to keep my boss on side).

Keep up the good work. I really am looking forward to seeing photos of the finished job!!

Keith
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by simon.holyfield »

IMAG2785.jpg
This is not an invite to a garden party, but I bought this 6 x 3 metre gazebo for my daughter's 21st... £85 from Homebase.

I sprayed a car with cellulose in one of these a few years ago, worked very well at keeping the weather at bay.
cheers

Simes

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'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by robjameson »

Thanks for the comments! Like I said, it is all in the prep work, I must have put 20 hours minimum in to paint, filling, rubbing down, stopper etc.

This time round I have been meticulous in using tack cloths and paint wipes before each coat, and mostly under the cover of my gazebo. It seems to have worked well.

I tried a different technique than usual on the top gloss coat; the owner of the motor factors I buy my paint from suggested rubbing down the top coat with 1200 grit, then misting over again with top gloss mixed 2 parts top gloss thinners to one part paint. It has improved the finish, but I still think it will benefit from a rub with some 1500 grit and polishing with some t cut - but I need to leave it to cure for a bit first (sitting in our spare bedroom nice and warm).

As it probably goes without saying, I learned these techniques from dad, I have no idea how he learned it...

I also learned a variety of swear words when fitting tyres and tubes, particularly when you pinch one while putting it in, which has come in handy this evening!
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dave.owen
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by dave.owen »

When spraying top clear coat I always rub back the paint to a matt finish first. It gives a good key for the clear coat

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Re: 1952 KH

Post by simon.holyfield »

I've started using Farecla products for cutting paint. You don't get that bloom that comes with T-Cut.
cheers

Simes

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'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
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Re: 1952 KH

Post by david.anderson »

Rob
It is looking good.
There were a couple of old tricks when using nitro cellulose or acrylic lacquers.
One was to add some silicone drops to the paint for a better finished shine off the gun. I noticed the silicone drops are still available at my local automotive paint store.
With a good job the finished coat was then rubbed back with 1500 – 2000 grit wet and dry to a perfect flat finish, then a buff with buffing compound was used to restore the shine. But the secret to a great depth of shine in the paint was to buff again with a new buff pad and a little cornflour on the pad. The cornflour works a treat with black paints.
David
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