Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

1952 parts book:
580-34 (A7/449) Hallite washer under top collar

I knew there was a reason I was familiar with them!
Maybe not used pre-'34 (I've not looked into those books). Not sure why it says top collar, I'd have said bottom collar, but the exploded engine diagrams show where it goes in the assembly.

SG

Vincent.vanGinneke wrote: ↑Mon May 16, 2022 10:28 pm Thanks Charles, inner copper ring it's going to be .

next question;
I am going to use the Amal pictured and want to fabricate a inlet manifold.
What is the distance from valve stem to needle on a '28 OHV ?

carb distance piece (2).jpg

I have a alloy bar to make one from :

carb distance piece (1).jpg

and : would it be o.k. to fit a fyber washer under the valve spring bottom collar?
I know they are used in alloy heads for quieter running, but does it make sense in a iron head ?

carb distance piece (2) - kopie.jpg

why do you want to use an extension? will there be a magnet or magdyno? If the magnet, use a short carburetor, it responds better I used it on one of my Ariels in the past and it worked well

Hi Vincent do have the the engine shockabsorber parts for your 28 model C motor? Ifyou have would you be kind enough to post photos with their
dimensions please?

Hello John, this is what I have :


I gave the 1st end nut a narrowing (or whats that called) , I expect to be able to put a second nut against it on assembly.
Hope this helps.
succes, Vincent

Oh, btw, which dimensions do you need? I think it's all pretty self-explanatory

The photograph shows a special tool I made from a pieces of scrap ¼" steel that certainly makes assembling the engine shock absorber on my 1928 Ariel a lot easier.
The overall dimensions are approximately 3"×5½", with the area in the piece on the left milled to half the thickness (⅛") and with a width to accommodate the OD of the spring. The dimension of the "window" in that piece is such that it fits over the step in the distance piece that is the innermost component of the shock absorber assembly. The bolt holes are spaced to clear the sprocket, so the tool compresses everything except that innermost spacer. Unless forced to, I won't give the other dimensions because I believe other engine shock absorber components are in circulation that may have slightly different dimensions.

I tapped the bottom piece ¼-20 and use four socket head cap screws to compress the spring, cam, and sprocket. Once the nut has been started on the crankshaft, but before it is fully tightened, the four ¼" screws are removed, and the bottom piece can be slipped out even though there is some amount of force from the spring on it.

I'm sure I had a good reason for the electrical tape on the four corners, but I can't remember what that reason is at the moment. Also, the large hole in the bottom piece was in the scrap that I used to make the compressor and has no purpose for the tool.

You are correct comfalco the engine shockabsobers are different 1928 29 30 going by the parts books.Thanks for details for the spring compressing jig and to Vincent for the photo details of the components. regards John Mackintosh New Zealand.

I don't remember if I posted this before but the following are the Ariel-specific jigs, fixtures, and special tools I used when I completely rebuilt my 1928 Ariel:

Engine
Sight glass cup blank off
Crankcase mouth alignment plate
Engine shock absorber spring compressor
Rocker grinding jig
Faux variable-length pushrod
Torque plate with spacers
Valve guide insertion stop
Dummy valve guide
Oil line pressure test kit
Faux 9½" crankshafts:
0.874"
0.874"/0.947"
0.859"/0.961"
Faux Imperial main bearing
Faux 62 mm metric main bearing
Metric main bearing honing jig
Camshaft electroplating chamber
Big end mandrel
Protractor adapter/spacer for main shaft
Protractor adapter for cam
Engine cases machining jig blocks
Base for mounting engine case to mill
Spacer/jig to mount engine case to mill
Jig to mount engine case to mill
Crankshaft sleeves for use on balancing wheels
Rod alignment gauge
Oil flinger shim soldering jig
Spacers for engine lifting jig
End float indicator holder
Oil pump disassembly kit
Magneto
Magneto sprocket extractor (stock)
Magneto sprocket extractor (variable sprocket)
Rod for rotating magneto
Gearbox and Clutch
1¼ BS deep socket for gearbox sprocket
Clutch hub sprag socket
Cutch hub holder
Socket for adjusting tension on clutch springs
Sleeve gear bush drift
Frame/Cycle Parts
Brake pedal extractor

The following photograph shows most of these, most of which I had to fabricate myself.


Of the items in this photograph, only the three spanners are commercially available. I suppose I could have omitted the smaller two and instead counted them as part of general purpose "Whitworth" spanners, but they're thinner than typical combination spanners and that thin attribute is needed for their use on the Ariel (e.g. the smallest one is for adjusting the tappets).

The wood block at the bottom of the photograph may seem out of place, but it is essential when working on the crankshaft. I would have replaced it with something machined from metal, except I prefer the softness of a wood block. The large round jig to its right also is extremely useful, so I included it in the photograph even though it is of general use for pressing together other crankshafts as well

Not much done on my '28.
But I collected the first batch of nickel plating, yummie stuff


Now on to the gearbox housing.
These are known for being made from something in between Knäckebröd and a deep sea sponge hiding as aluminium.

Previous attempts by 'professional' alloy welders did not result in anything sticking -pun intended-
Turns out that my next door neighbour is a expert !
No need to travel further then a 100 meters !
But still, I have to add that he was not overly enjoyed by the 'quality' of the Burman casting.....
I dont think he will gladly do it again....

I'm also facing similar surgery on my 4F6/1932 and I'm not looking forward to it at all.

I have a similar batch of nickel plating completed.