Restoration Tip

[Les H]

Following the recent chat to Simon regarding my VH. I mention here a tip worth doing. It seems that many owners if they have decided to get metal work powder-coated simply strip the bike down and take the frame and tin-ware to their powder coating firm to get it blasted and coated. Fortunately, just a few minutes spent BEFORE taking it in pays big dividends in getting a better end result. Most parts devoid of paint over the years will have suffered rusting that creates pitting. When the parts get blasted, the pitting is revealed even more irrespective of coating thickness applied afterwards, so you'll be getting back painted pits rather than nicely smooth coated metal. To avoid this, just go over all the parts especially frames, swinging arms and fork sliders and using a fine but sharp file, file all the areas around the pitting and blend smooth the rusted areas so they blend in with the surrounding area. This doesn't take very long at all. I would also recommend filing off old weld splatters and rough welds, which, on Ariel's with their arc welded frames, is often quite extensive compared to frames which are brazed lug construction. This half an hour's work will mean all the returned powder coated metal work will look so much better being completely smooth, much like a new bike rather than a previously corroded bike with new paint.

[MGriffin]

I agree the process of dressing up the frame and associated parts prior to surface protection as a worthwhile exercise given the factory was in the business of making money (like all other commercial concerns then and now), not motorcycles as such so perhaps the finer finishing off of the product was less of a concern than to us now.

I will say though that powder coating is an awful thing to use as surface protection. I’ve never been a fan of the process as it cracks like hard plastic, you cant touch it up, it fills up bores and threads so that when go to assemble its a laborious task of filing out etc, it looks overly thick and it masks cracks.
2K is my preference.
Just my two pence worth.
MG

[Les H]

Hi MG...Each to his own and I fully understand your dislikes. As regards touching it up, I find it is so tough it's very hard to chip if it has been done well, with primer. The alternative is 2K which probably looks superb but it does chip VERY easily and you WILL need to touch it up. Yes the filling up of holes etc. is a pain but sometimes the thickness of powder-coat can be used as an excellent pre 2K primer filler, I have used this on mudguards and boxes. It sands beautifully easy I find. For me, it beats 2K on frames because it's so tough...if only you could get stove enamelling done nowadays

[paul.jameson]

I restored my Mk II in 2007. Previously owned by Ralph Hawkins, he told me that Tim Healey had powder coated it when it was last restored in the early 1970s. Ralph never cleaned his bike, taking pride in having the dirt from the LDR still on the bike at the Annual Rally. So the muck was thick when I started restoration and the powder coating didn't look too good. But a rub over with T-Cut (after cleaning off the dirt) brought it back to looking (and being) an excellent finish. So the paintwork needed for my restoration was just the wheels and tank which I chose to do in export green, since that allowed the black everywhere else to be correct. The bike took the award for Best Square Four at the Annual Rally. I have used powder coating for frames and small items ever since, but I still spray tanks, toolboxes, mudguards, etc. myself - with cellulose.

[Les H]

That really is a beautiful motorcycle Paul. The green tank and wheels are quite unusual but looks magnificent. As said, the powder coating, if done properly is super tough, even so, one suggestion to help keep it in tip top condition, how about fitting a front rubber mud-flap? However, it's wearing very well for the last 15 years!... It's a deserved best bike, well done

[jim.haydock]

Paul, your post about Tim Healey and powder coating brought back a memory from the mid to late 1980's when I was in the process of restoring a collection of parts acquired from Denys Wilkinson that finally came together in 1997 as my much loved 1946, rigid and girders NH. I took the frame for powder coating to Redditch Powder Coatings. I'm pretty sure that was the name of the firm though it was a long while ago, and I must have got their details from Cheval or one of the various publications around at the time. Anyway, when I found the place I was surprised to discover that next door (or nearby) was Healey Brothers shop. Two and two together and I guess that it's very likely that they also did powder coating for Tim Healey and hence your square four. I have to say that I was very pleased about the work that they did for me and that my frame also still comes up nicely with a tad of polish and elbow grease.

[jim.haydock]

[TonyBaxter]

...if only you could get stove enamelling done nowadays

Er, yes, you can. Just google stove enamelling, still plenty of places do.

[Les H]

Thanks Tony...Only just seen your message to me. that's interesting I'll do some searching . I do know of one fairly local firm that says that they do stove enamelling on their ad but in reality they say they only do powder coat. Will search further and thanks again...Les

[TonyBaxter]

Thanks Tony...Only just seen your message to me. that's interesting I'll do some searching . I do know of one fairly local firm that says that they do stove enamelling on their ad but in reality they say they only do powder coat. Will search further and thanks again...Les

I rang one of the local companies to me and got some minion on the phone who argued that I should have the powder coat and not the stoving. Why do you want stove enamel he asked me. Well, I thought the customer was the one who had the choice so I hung up on him.