I am a bit surprised at the advice on lapping in the head to the barrel. On my 38 VH engine there is a gap of very roughly half a millimeter between the head and barrel on the outside surface so there is no point in putting grinding paste anywhere else than on the spigot. Is this normal?

It should be a BSW socket. I removed mine with a cold chisel (with the barrel off), the head was rounded. Single spares will sell you one with a metric head so you can use a six-sided socket in future. Fortunately with modern oils the sludge trap fills up very slowly nowadays.

Charlie

Normally the tank would be maroon with stripes replicated in the picture here using the original paintwork as a guide.

Norm, a Zeus book is handy, you will see what the different threads are.

google zeus book free download

Charlie

Thanks for the reply Rick. I have bought a buzzer device and will use it next time. Although if the factory used fag paper the timing information should be compatible with this method. I've never been confident about the consistency. Thankfully the timing is not absolutely critical in these machines.

RAL 3007

Thanks for the replies, wonderful people!
I might try the buzzer method. Haycraft uses a fag paper and Waller and the Ariel Owner's Manual don't specify how to detect the points opening.
I was hoping someone had knowledge of how the factory timed the ignition.

Hi, all.

How did the factory set the ignition timing on a MO1L magneto? Surely not with a cigarette paper, surely?

Charlie

Thanks for the answers, folks. The suggested mod. is for the alloy head, I have an iron head.

Hi, all.
As it seems impossible to get push rod oil seals to fit, I an considering buying 8.4 mm viton cord with which to make o rings. This will have to be cut and glued. Will the glue withstand the temperature of an iron cylinder head?

Charlie