It certainly has all the hallmarks of an upgrade gone awry . . .
. . . Friday evening, missing software, nobody answering their phones.

I can almost hear the screaming from here.

Dennis,

Did you find this diagram?

https://draganfly.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... engths.jpg

It has dimensions from the outise of the box so can be used without taking the shaft out.

Waller suggests 0.002" after honing for white-metal bearings. Waller is an excellent source of this sort of information. Otherwise talking to the supplier of your bearings would be your best bet. The ideal with these bearings is to finish them with the cases together and the drive side bearing ...

To build a bit on Julian's comments on skimming the hub: it's worth noting that the braking
surface on those hubs wasn't that thick to start off with and also that tensioning the spokes
to pull a dodgy rim back to round will often pull the braking surface out of round.

Thanks everyone for all the hints and information.

There's nice, clean oil returning to the tank now and tomorrow as long as I get up
in time there'll be a decent run for me to enjoy.

I thought the photo of the dynamo and its drive didn't look right but it took Nev's comment to
help me see what's wrong. According to the parts book the dynamo sprocket should have
just 14 teeth.

I'll have a look at the drive parts of my 1929 drive tomorrow and take some pictures.

Looking back at your earlier posts I see that you have a 276 Amal fitted. The Amal documentation for the 1935 NG lists a 75/014 carb which is 7/8" bore and has a 64/089 float chamber with a 14 degree angle. Any appropriately sized Amal monobloc or concentric should handle the 14 degree downdraf...

I did wonder a little whether there was another one of me somewhat further north
than the wilderness I live in between Bedford and Luton.

There is a good picture of what the clutch adjuster looks like here:

viewtopic.php?t=14161

Yes, it is and they are fairly rare. The alloy pivot for the brake lever is very vulnerable when the bike goes over and the combined unit was pricey even in the day so the broken pivot got chopped off and a separate brake lever added. The twistgrip used a smaller than standard cable ferrule too whic...

That sounds like the correct adjuster to me. There is also a degree of adjustment in the actuator that the clutch arm - the bit that the inner cable connects to - acts on when the handlebar lever is pulled to free the clutch. Ideally the clutch arm should be at right angles to the cable with the clu...